No, the bar has to be inside the solution too. What happens is that
electrons are sucked off the iron bar and deposited on the part to be
cleaned of rust. Removing electrons from iron in the presence of oxygen
(from the "O" in H2O) causes iron oxide (rust) to form on the iron rod,
while depositing electrons on the rusty part causes the reverse process --
the rust goes back to elemental iron and water, hence, cleaning the part of
rust. Yes, it does create a "short" across the solution, technically, but
that is what you want, in order to get the desired results. Don't forget,
though, that the amount of current we are talking about here is just a few
milleamps, which is not enough to cause the old "radio falling into the
bathtub effect".
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Gowins <cartman@dnai.com>
To: Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 11:56 AM
Subject: RE: Electrolytic cleaning of metal
>Forgive me for sounding dense, but I'm taking it that the end of the bar
>that you connect to the positive side also must be out of the solution? If
>both contacts are in the solution, wouldn't that just cause a massive
short?
>Just want to check before I bring down a power grid or something...<grin>
>Thanks!
>
>Greg Gowins
>'69 Sprite
>Dublin, CA
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Wiedemeyer
>Sent: Sunday, October 17, 1999 8:47 AM
>To: valntine@ptd.net
>Cc: spridgets list
>Subject: Re: Electrolytic cleaning of metal
>
>Leo,
>
>I finally figured out how to attach these directions for electrolysis of
>rusty parts. By the way, please note that the iron bar attaches to the (+)
>side of the charger, and the rusty part attaches to the (-) side, which is
>the reverse, I think, of what I stated earlier.
>
>Bob
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Valentine <valntine@ptd.net>
>To: Bob Wiedemeyer <boxweed@thebest.net>
>Date: Friday, May 07, 1999 6:48 PM
>Subject: Electrolytic cleaning of metal
>
>
>>Bob,
>
>>Electrolytic Cleaning:
>>I have had a couple of requests for this recently and there are a lot of
>>new
>>subscribers, so here 'tis again. I hope I have covered all the points.
>>
>>Q. What is the method?
>>A. A technique for returning surface rust to iron. It uses the effect
>>of an
>>small low voltage electric current and a suitable electrolyte
>>(solution).
>>
>>Q. What advantages does the method have over the old standbys, like
>>vinegar,
>>Coke, muriatic acid, Naval Jelly, wire brushing, sand blasting etc. ?
>>A. These methods all remove material to remove the rust, including
>>un-rusted
>>surfaces. With many, the metal is left with a "pickled"look or a
>>characteristic
>>color and texture. The electrolytic method removes nothing: by returning
>>surface
>>rust to metallic iron, rust scale is loosened and can be easily removed.
>>Un-rusted metal is not affected in any way.
>>
>>Q. What about screws, pivots, etc that are "rusted tight"?
>>A. The method will frequently solve these problems, without the need for
>>force,
>>which can break things.
>>
>>Q. Is it safe?
>>A. The solutions used are not hazardous; the voltages and currents are
>>low, so
>>there is no electrical hazard. No noxious fumes are produced. The method
>>is self
>>limiting: it is impossible to overclean an object.
>>
>>Q. Where did this method come from?
>>A. Electrolysis is a standard technique in the artifact restoration
>>business. I
>>wrote this up for the Chronicle of the Early American Industries
>>Association a
>>few years back. Most of the tool collectors around here use it:
>>
>>Q. What do I need?
>>A. A plastic tub; a stainless steel or iron electrode, water and washing
>>soda
>>(NOT baking soda!!) and a battery charger. About a tablespoon of soda to
>>a
>>gallon of water. If you have trouble locating the washing soda,
>>household lye
>>will work just fine. It's a tad more nasty--always wear eye protection
>>and be
>>sure to add the lye to the water (NOT water to lye!!!) The solution is
>>weak, and
>>is not harmful, though you might want to wear gloves.
>>
>>Q. How long does the solution last?
>>A. Forever, though the loosened rust will make it pretty disgusting
>>after a
>>while. Evaporation and electrolysis will deplete the water from the
>>solution.
>>Add water ONLY to bring the level back.
>>
>>Q. What about the iron electode?
>>A.The iron electrode works best if it surrounds the object to be
>>cleaned, since
>>the cleaning is "line of sight" to a certain extent. The iron electode
>>will be
>>eaten away with time. Stainless steel has the advantage (some alloys,
>>but not
>>all) that it is not eaten away.
>>
>>Q. How do I connect the battery charger?
>>A.THE POLARITY IS CRUCIAL!! The iron or stainless electrode is
>>connected to the
>>positive (red) terminal. The object being cleaned, to the
>>negative(black).
>>Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact, which can be
>>difficult
>>with heavily rusted objects.
>>
>> Q. How do I know if it is working?
>>A. Turn on the power. If your charger has a meter, be sure come current
>>is
>>flowing. Again, good electrical contact may be hard to make-it is
>>essential.
>>Fine bubbles will rise from the object.
>>
>>Q.. How long do I leave it?
>>A. The time depends on the size of the object and of the iron electrode,
>>and on
>>the amount of rust. You will have to test the object by trying to wipe
>>off the
>>rust. Ir it is not completely clean, try again. Typical cleaning time
>>for
>>moderately rusted objects is a few hours. With heavily rusted objects
>>can be
>>left over night.
>>
>>Q. How do I get the rust off after I remove the object?
>>A. Rub the object under running water. A paper towel will help. For
>>heavily
>>rusted objects, a plastic pot scrubber can be used, carefully. Depending
>>on the
>>amount of original rust, you may have to re-treat.
>>
>>Q. My object is too big to fit. Can I clean part of it?
>>A. Yes. You can clean one end and then the other. Lap marks should be
>>minimal if
>>the cleaning was thorough.
>>
>>Q. After I take it out, then what?
>>A. The clean object will acquire surface rust very quickly, so wipe it
>>dry and
>>dry further in a warm oven or with a hair dryer. You may want to apply a
>>light
>>oil or a coat of wax to prevent further rusting.
>>
>>Q. Will the method remove pitting?
>>A. No. It only operates on the rust in immediate contact with unrusted
>>metal.
>>What's gone is gone.
>>
>>Q. What will it look like when I am done?
>>A. The surface of rusted metal is left black. Rusted pits are still
>>pits. Shiny
>>unrusted metal is untouched.
>>
>>Q. What about nickle plating, paint, japanning and the like?
>>A. Sound plating will not be affected. Plating under which rust has
>>penetrated
>>will usually be lifted. The solution may soften some paints. Test with a
>>drop of
>>solution in an inconspicuous place. Remove wood handles if possible
>>before
>>treating.
>>
>>Q. How can I handle objects that are awkward to clean?
>>A. There are lots of variants: suspending an electrode inside to clean a
>>cavity
>>in an object; using a sponge soaked in the electrolyte with a backing
>>electrode
>>to clean spots on large objects or things that shouldn't be submerged
>>(like with
>>lots of wood)
>>
>>Q. How can I dispose of the solution?
>>A. The bath will last until it gets so disgusting that you decide it is
>>time for
>>a fresh one. There is nothing especially nasty about it-it's mildly
>>basic-so
>>disposal is not a concern, except you may not want all the crud in your
>>drains.
>>
>>Q. Can I use metal containers?
>>A. This is highly risky. Galvanized metal can introduce zinc into the
>>solution.
>>If you have used lye, it will attack aluminum. You may have problems
>>with
>>electrical shorts, etc. Stick to plastic.
>>
>>Q. How can I clean odd shaped objects?
>>A. Be ingenious. Plastic PVC pipe and eave troughs, wooden boxes with
>>poly vapor
>>barrier.
>>
>>
>>Ted Kinsey (original author)
>
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