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Re: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip

To: "Larry & Sandi Miller" <millerls@ado13.com>, "Thickos" <team-thicko@autox.team.net>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 14:20:09 -0500
References: <05da01bf0d32$2c88c530$73ab66ce@avid.com> <002101bf0d42$97012320$5b9ee3cd@mbayweb.com> <066801bf0d47$79cd73d0$73ab66ce@avid.com> <004d01bf0dcf$100f6920$449ee3cd@mbayweb.com>
Reply-to: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
The standard Speedi-Sleeve is available form Winner's Circle... so you could
call them...

WST
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry & Sandi Miller <millerls@ado13.com>
To: Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson@thicko.com>; Thickos
<team-thicko@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 1999 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip


> WST
>
> Thanks, I would really appreciate it if you can find the number for the
> Speedi-Sleeve.
>
>
> Larry Miller
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson@thicko.com>
> To: Larry & Sandi Miller <millerls@ado13.com>; Thickos
> <team-thicko@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>; vintage race
list
> <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 7:32 PM
> Subject: Re: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip
>
>
> > Larry,
> >
> > I'll have to check to see what the stock hub sleeve is... I gave my last
> one
> > away at the track, including the box... doh!
> >
> > That will solve your problem, though.
> >
> > WST
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Larry & Sandi Miller <millerls@ado13.com>
> > To: Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson@thicko.com>; Thickos
> > <team-thicko@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>; vintage race
> list
> > <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 8:57 PM
> > Subject: Re: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip
> >
> >
> > > WST
> > >
> > > Thanks for the info.  Would the Speedi-Sleeve number CR 99172 also be
> > > correct when using a stock hub? I've developed an oil leak down the
back
> > > side of the backing plate after about 1500 miles on new seals. I'm
> > assuming
> > > that when I tear it down I will discover that the axle is the problem
> and
> > > will have to sleeve it.
> > >
> > > Larry Miller
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson@thicko.com>
> > > To: Thickos <team-thicko@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>;
> > > vintage race list <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 4:59 PM
> > > Subject: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip
> > >
> > >
> > > > To all,
> > > >
> > > > The Red Rat Bastard #99 was the "test mule" for what turned out to
be
> a
> > > > great solution for the age old Sprite leaking double bearing hub
> > > situation.
> > > >
> > > > The solution? Pretty simple really. First off, the outer bearing is
> > > replaced
> > > > with a sealed bearing. There are two styles available, a steel
sided,
> > and
> > > a
> > > > rubber sided. You want the rubber sided bearing. These are sealed
for
> > life
> > > > and suitable  for high speed applications. The inner bearing is hand
> > > packed
> > > > in hi-speed synthetic grease, and the inner seal rides on a
> > Speedi-Sleeve.
> > > >
> > > > So, the oil in the axle tube sloshes out to the axle cap under
> > cornering,
> > > > bounces off the cap, hits the sealed bearing, and can go no further.
> The
> > > > bearing packed in synthetic grease seems to motor quite happily.
> > > >
> > > > Initial tests of this setup, using a double lip seal at Road
America,
> > > > revealed some minor seepage of grease past the seal. It turns out
the
> > > double
> > > > lip seal is about 6 thousandths smaller than the single lip seal...
so
> > the
> > > > seal basically fell out of the double bearing hub. I have "peened"
the
> > > > inside of my hubs where the seal rides, and with the addition of the
> > > proper
> > > > Loctite, it should stay put. But, since it's not seeing any oil,
only
> > > > grease, I suggest using the single lip seal because of it's larger
OD.
> > You
> > > > should still glue them in.
> > > >
> > > > A word of caution... when you bend the washer behind the axle nut
over
> > the
> > > > nut, be sure not to damage the rubber on the sealed bearing face.
> > > >
> > > > The Speedi-Sleeve may be a different one than you're used to seeing,
> but
> > > > there's reason for that. It rides all the way in on the axle stub,
so
> > that
> > > > the only thing riding on it is the seal, not the inner bearing. The
> > double
> > > > bearing hubs inner bearing won't fit over the sleeve. When
installing
> > the
> > > > Speedi-Sleeve,  make sure you dress the existing axle stub surface
> with
> > > > emery cloth. Also, take the installation tool that comes with it and
> > throw
> > > > it away. Find a suitable piece of tailpipe, with the correct ID, and
> > > gently
> > > > tap the Speedi-Sleeve into place... all the way to the backing plate
> > area.
> > > > The lip on the sleeve can stay in place, if it's seated against the
> > back.
> > > >
> > > > Another thing, take the paper axle gaskets and the O ring, and toss
> them
> > > out
> > > > too. I have used the "Secret Schmoo" method successfully for about 7
> > years
> > > > of hard racing, and never had any leak from the axle caps. I am
> running
> > > > stock later model axles, not the overpriced "comp" axles being sold
> > these
> > > > days.... more on this subject later. If you are running the comp
> axles,
> > > you
> > > > most likely have seepage from the splines. Careful assembley with a
> > > gasket,
> > > > some schmoo, and washer should slow the flow.  This works absolutely
> > fine
> > > on
> > > > stock hubs as well. Use Brakeclean on the hub surface and the axle
> cap.
> > > Use
> > > > a razor blade if necessary to scrape the axle cap clean. Use RTV
> > sealant,
> > > > (blue, black, copper... doesn't seem to matter) applied to the inner
> > > surface
> > > > of the axle cap. No gasket, no O ring. Install the axle. Use the
> counter
> > > > sunk screws (available from Winner's Circle) with the allen head
> rather
> > > than
> > > > slotted or Phillips. The reason is that the first one that goes on
> with
> > > the
> > > > axle, the short one, can be tightened again after the drum and
> remaining
> > > two
> > > > screws are in place. It doesn't hurt to install and torque the
wheels
> > > right
> > > > away, as it makes sure everything that's being glued together is
snug.
> > > >
> > > > Also, remember the "driver's side" (on a left hand steering Sprite)
> axle
> > > nut
> > > > is "reverse thread".
> > > >
> > > > The parts list is as follows...
> > > >
> > > > Sealed bearing        SKF 6207-2RS1/C3HT51 available from Berry
> bearing.
> > > > or                            MRC 207-SZZ/H501 available from
Winner's
> > > > Circle
> > > > There is a bearing available from NAPA that can be cross refenced to
> the
> > > > numbers above. I paid about $24-$26 from BB or WC, and about $32
from
> > > Napa.
> > > >
> > > > The inner bearing is the one that came with the hub, just packed in
> > > grease.
> > > >
> > > > The Speedi-Sleeve number is Chicago Rawhide CR 99172
> > > >
> > > > The single lip seal is Chicago Rawhide CR 17695
> > > > This is also available through NAPA
> > > >
> > > > You mileage may vary, objects in the mirror may be closer than they
> > > appear,
> > > > I didn't know she was 16...
> > > >
> > > > WST
> > > > Flounder
> > > > Team Thicko
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>


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