> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hanna, Mark
> Sent: Friday, July 16, 1999 10:57 AM
> To: 'Kate & Gary Bales'
> Cc: 'spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.
>
> I was using my car as a daily driver for seven years with dot 5 fluid .
> Lots of Mtn. road driving .
> No problems - not even failed brake light switches . No leaks , no damaged
> paint .
> Mark Hanna
> AN5L/13731
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kate & Gary Bales [SMTP:kgb@clipper.net]
> Sent: Friday, July 16, 1999 7:37 AM
> To: HFC
> Cc: Bryan Vandiver; spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.
>
> Hi Herb,
> I have had Dot 5 brake fluid in my car for umten years or so, and
> have never had a
> problem. In fact, my mechanis said that that was the only reason my
> brakes did not
> have to be rebuilt after the car sat for 4 years when I blew up the
> engine. Frankly,
> I swear by it.
> Kate
>
> HFC wrote:
>
> > Bryan,
> >
> > I'd be interested in hearing how well your brakes work with the
> "synthetic" fluid.
> > I presume you are referring to Silicone DOT 5 fluid. We tried it
> under similar
> > circumstances and ran into a "hydraulic lock" situation. The
> rubber cups in the
> > master cylinder swelled up causing blockage.
> >
> > Anyone else have this trouble?
> >
> > WFO Herb
> > Keep the sticky side down!
> >
> > Bryan Vandiver wrote:
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I'm just putting the finishing touches on my bugeye restoration
> project, and
> > > have run into some issues with the rear brakes, and clutch.
> > >
> > > I am using a rebuilt 7/8 inch dual master, that was
> bead-blasted, and honed. I
> > > cleaned out all the brake and clutch lines with carb cleaner,
> and then blew them
> > > out with compressed air. Since I was upgrading to front disk
> brakes, I thought
> > > it would be best to upgrade the rear as well, so I pulled the
> brake backing
> > > plates off a '78 rb midget (as well as the parking brake
> linkages), and
> > > installed a new set of 3/4" brake cylinders. I am using my
> 'original' bearing
> > > hubs, and brake drums ( dated 7/58). once I installed
> everything, and bolted on
> > > the wheels, I noticed a lot of binding on the rear wheels ( in
> fact, I could
> > > barely push the car out of the garage). After taking off both
> drums, they both
> > > appear to be contacting the later brake backing plates. I
> compared my early
> > > brake drums to later ones, and they have the same exact distance
> from the back
> > > lip of the drum to the mounting surface. Has anyone done this,
> or run into this
> > > problem??
> > >
> > > As for the clutch...
> > > This is the 'stiffest' clutch I have experience in any car, is
> that typical of
> > > sprites??
> > > I have a ribcase trans, but the new clutch slave cylinder is the
> 'early style'
> > > 7/8" (moss 180-655), to be compatible with my original clutch
> line and master.
> > > All other clutch components are '1275 type' including the slave
> cyl 'push-rod'.
> > > The 'new' clutch kit was part# COM710/kit from MiniMania.
> > > Besides being very tough to bleed, are these clutches really
> that hard to
> > > disengage? I can't imaging driving with this in traffic!
> > >
> > > BTW - I am using 'sythetic brake fluid' since I am using all new
> components, and
> > > all lines were'flushed' first.
> > >
> > > Regards - Bryan Vandiver (San Jose, CA)
>
>
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