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Re: Solving a bodywork problem

To: "Charles D. Sorkin" <cdsorkin@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Solving a bodywork problem
From: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 10:14:10 -0400
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <006f01becec8$6185eae0$2012d3c6@y1e6l0>
Reply-to: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Charles -

For that kind of money, you could get a complete, new bodyshell shipped
from England to your door (or your mechanic), ready for paint.  In
short, your mechanic is overestimating the repair costs, possibly in a
goodhearted attempt to dissuade you from making what he sees as a bad
decision.

MO$$ Motors lists the assembly required (unless the rust is REALLY
extensive), ready to be welded into your body, for around $100, and the
individual components of the structure are available as well.

I'd say you should (a) genuinely thank your mechanic for being observant
and concerned for your welfare, (b) have him do the brake work (or
better yet, learn to do it yourself), then (c) take the car from your
mechanic and forthwith have a competent bodyman who is familar with
Midgets look over the problem and give you an estimate.

Chris Kotting
ckotting@iwaynet.net

"Charles D. Sorkin" wrote:
> 
> Dear List:
> 
> I recently purchased a 1974 Midget, the 1275 style.  The engine and
> transmission are relatively healthy, and the former owner has done a
> relatively decent job of improving the engine to near original condition.
> However, when taking the car over to the mechanic's shop to accomplish some
> brake work, he noticed while the car was up on the lift that there is
> substantial rust near the rear drivers side wheel well in the area where the
> suspension spring attaches to the frame.  He is rather concerned by this, as
> the end result in a few years will be that the spring will become
> unattatched, and the back corner of the car will fall to the ground (aginst
> the wheel), and probably while the car is in motion.
> 
> He is reluctant to do any repairs himself for the liability issue, and the
> fellow suggested that it is probably not economical to do any further
> maintenance on the car. (i.e., throw it away). However, upon further
> conversation with him, when I made it known that the car is a restoration
> project and that over a long time frame (say 10 years) I would probably
> spend thousands of dollars regardless of the current state of rust, he then
> estimated that the cost of such a repair might be on the order of $5,000.
> 
> Does anybody have any experience with such a frame rust problem?  Do any
> list members have any ideas about how to go about fabricating a safe and
> secure repair, given the unibody construction of the 1275 Midget?  What were
> the costs involved?
> 
> I am still in the denial phase presently, but given my long-term plans for
> the car, it does not seem to make much of a difference whether or not I
> start with a strong (but rusty) vehicle in which I've invested about $1500,
> or start over with a rust free car (which could cost as much as $3000) that
> needs mechanical work.  My impression is that many folks have achieved
> excellent results starting with less resources, and still have safe,
> satisfactory, and good looking vehicles.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charles
> '74 Midget
> cdsorkin@ix.netcom.com
> Bloomfield, NJ

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