Well I was actually waiting for someone to ask, but as Gary pointed out,
it really is important.
Rather than Gary's suggestion of simply cutting a chunk off the bump
stop,I modified mine to be shaped like a pyramid about 50% of the
original height.
I left the bottom alone so that the mounting holes are untouched and
using a very sharp kitchen wife (shhhhhh!) and a vice, I trimmed it to
make a square-base pyramid.
This has the advantage of making the stop very progressive - unlike the
amplified *THUMP* that is normally characteristic of bugeyes.
The car is much nicer on bumpy roads now...
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Speckman <speckman@coredcs.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, 3 July 1999 0:13
Subject: Rubber Bump Stop Patent #55
> At 12:42 PM 7/2/99 +1000, Mike Gigante wrote:
> >My wedge solution is based on a bit of rectangular alloy bar (1/4" thick
> >and the same width as the spring (1.5" I think).
>
>
> As Mike G pointed out, after installing the "wedges" to lower the back of
> the car, the bump stops HAVE to be modified.
>
> He also said 1/4" will lower the car quite a bit, this is true, so dont be
> tempted to go overboard.
>
> The reason the bump stops have to be modified is that if you dont, you
will
> be "riding" on the bump stops, effectively eliminating any suspension
> travel. This is a VERY dangerous condition, as the car needs this travel
for
> safe handling. I have seen a car modified like this, without the
> modification to the bump stops roll over after hitting the slightest bump
in
> a high speed corner in the track at BlackHawk Farms. I was behind the
> fellow and was observing the lack of any suspension movement as he ran
> around the track. After the incident, I went over and saw the reason.
>
> The modification, although patented by Mike G, is to simply cut off the
> bottom half, at least, of the rubber stop.
>
> Gary Speckman
> Plover WI
>
>
>
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