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Re: 1961 Sprite MarkII Recommendations

To: "Philip Hubbard" <hubbard@idir.net>
Subject: Re: 1961 Sprite MarkII Recommendations
From: "George Procyshyn" <geopro@cyberdrive.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 19:00:56 -0400
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
References: <3.0.1.32.19990627172643.0069a1d4@idir.net>
Reply-to: "George Procyshyn" <geopro@cyberdrive.net>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Phillip
Just a quick thought on your question.
As a general rule a car that's apart is worth LESS than the same car
together and running. Reason is because there are fewer buyers out there for
a basket case then there are for a running car.  Also, remember that if this
car were together  you'd still have bad brakes, a non running engine
(supposidly rebulit or not, any paperwork ie. receipts from the machine shop
or for parts to support the claim?), carbs that need work, only one seat, a
broken windshield, bad side curtains ... etc. etc. IMHO $1000. should buy
it. Make a BIG deal about poor condition, offer $800. and see what happens,
you can always go up!
Regards
George Procyshyn
'58 AN5


----- Original Message -----
From: Philip Hubbard <hubbard@idir.net>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 1999 6:26 PM
Subject: 1961 Sprite MarkII Recommendations


> Hello Listers,
>
> As most of you know, I bought a '73 Midget a few months ago as a project
> car.  I'm considering bailing out before I get too far in favor of an
> easier rebuild.  The '73 looks like it needs more than I feel comfortable
> with on the rust side of life - I'm a bit intimidated.  Another thought is
> that if I do end up needing to have the bodywork done professionally, I'd
> like to know I'm paying to get something unique.  I already have a '74
> Midget so an early car like a 1961 appeals.  This brings me to the
following.
>
> I could get a '61 Sprite (box) locally at asking price $1500 OBO.  If I go
> for it, I'd be offering somewhere between $1,000-$1,200.  Here are the
good
> points:
>
> Next to no rust in front fenders - none in inner fenders.
> Perfect floorboards.
> Rust only in front 2" of sills, but I guess that could turn out to need
> total replacements.
> No rust in flares of rear wheel arches.
> No rust in boot or boot lid.
> Small amount of rust in A-pillar.  Looks like a small patch on the outside
> would do as I poked around with a screwdriver and the hinge area feels
solid.
> One tiny spot of rust in bonnet at lip.
> Car mostly stripped saving me some grunt work and allowing me to get good
> view of above.
> One perfect looking seat - the other got thrown away by seller's pal by
> mistake.
> All original gauges.
> 948cc rebuilt 5 years ago, but never run and let sit.  Original smooth
case
> tranny.
> Car was driven before rebuild.
> Perfect top.
> Dash in great shape.
> All electrical present, but don't know if works (no battery).
> AH hub cabs present.
> Some extra parts (2 extra generators, 1 radiator, etc.)
>
>
> Here are the less good points:
>
> Typical bad rust in rear quarters, low and at very rear of car.  Also some
> in lower area in front of rear wheel arch.
> One door so-so, but other badly bondoed - seems best to buy a new door
> rather than fix.
> Ugly, ugly interior vinyl - must replace even though it's in good shape.
> Some odd shade of brown.
> Needs new windshield though the frame looks ok.
> Non-original steering wheel, but replacement is AH from around '68.
> One carb piston sticks something fierce.
> Rock hard clutch pedal allowing no movement at all - soft brake pedal
which
> can be pumped up.
> Side curtain plastic look ok, but rubber completely gone.
>
> Any thoughts on an offer of $1,000-$1,200 for such a car, not being
> absolutely sure of the car functioning?  (engine does look like it was
> rebuilt)  The guy does seem a decent, honest fellow.
>
> Two last questions for the brave souls who made it this far:
>
> 1) Was there that much less clearance between steering wheel and drivers'
> legs in the earlier cars than the later ones?  I say this because in this
> one, the wheel almost hits my knees and it seems the seat doesn't go as
far
> back.  In my '74 I drive daily, there seems to be considerable room
between
> the bottom of the wheel and my legs.  I had a '63 Midget once, but that
was
> 20 years ago and I can't remember.
>
> 2) Has anyone known Horler to be off with his VIN/Engine dating?  I ask
> because here are the numbers from this car titled as a 1961:
>
> VIN - HAN6-16344
> Engine - 9CG DaH 32457
>
> These would appear to be for a car built somewhere between Feb-Mar 1962
for
> the chassis number and June 1962 for the engine number.  How could it then
> be titled as a 1961?  Is there maybe some engine swapping/chassis plate
> switching going on?
>
> Thanks a million to anyone who'd car to offer up an opinion on any of the
> numerous questions I've put to the group.
>
> Philip
> 1974 Damask Midget - Arioch, Lord of Chaos
> 1973 Damask Midget - Unnamed


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