Wonderful Web site... Hey if you haven't gone and checked it out.... it is
too cool... nice Stack o matic.... hell I may have to do that one day...
Keith Turk
Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
Racer)
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> From: Gerard Chateauvieux <pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com>
> To: Hal Faulkner <faulkner@redshift.com>
> Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Buying a "kit " car
> Date: Wednesday, June 16, 1999 5:30 AM
>
> Hal,
>
> Since I am in the midst of doing exactly what you're asking about, I
think
> I am qualified to give you an expert opinion. First of all, it depends on
> what you want as the end result.
>
> Do you want a car that when assembled runs and looks somewhere between
> mediocre and decent, or do you want something that is really sharp and
put
> together exactly like you want it?
>
> It is very likely you can buy something mostly restored that you can
> complete for less than doing all from scratch, and hope whoever did the
> work did the job correctly. However, if you want something that you KNOW
> has been put together right the way YOU want it done, and you enjoy the
> PROCESS, then go the "kit" car route.
>
> What you pay for the car will be insignificant( even if you spend $1000
or
> $1500) compared to the number of hours you put into it, and what you will
> spend on repainting and renewing worn out parts. Of course cheaper is
> always better, but it's worth spending a little more on a solid
candidate.
> A stripped body will allow you to know strengths or shortcomings.
>
> I am restoring a '68 that I received pretty much only the body and glass
> (no drivetrain or suspension or interior. Between spare parts I already
had
> around from other cars, what I rounded up from friends and swap meets, I
> now have everything I need to assemble a complete car. As soon as I get
> past my paint obstacle, I'll be able to put my "kit " car together as
I've
> renewed and refurbished (or will before I'm done} just about every other
> part for the car.
>
> If you have the patience (I've spent around two years and easily over
1000
> hours doing this. What keeps me going is the satisfaction that I will
have
> built an outstanding car, just the way I wanted it. It does get
frustrating
> and tedious at times but the end result is worth it (and I have a nice
> running Bugeye to satisfy my driving fix). Of course, if you have the
best
> tool (a checkbook) at your disposal, you can get the job done a lot
faster.
>
> I don't know your skill level, but personally, I would stay away from
cars
> that need rust repair (there will be plenty else to do). I would not have
> ventured into this project at all except for the rust free body. As far
as
> buying a car in boxes, make sure you know the car well enough to
recognize
> what might be missing, unless you can get it cheap enough where it
doesn't
> matter. A car that has had the body work done properly is a big advantage
> too as this is what can get most costly.
>
> Specifically,
>
> * I did all the body work myself (staightening small dents, skimming with
> metal glaze), will primer it myself, but will pay for a professional
paint
> job. (body was in excellent condition , but still needed lots of minor
> cosmetic work to make right.
>
> * You'll need a fair amount of space to store all the parts from a
> completely disassembled car. (at least twice the space as the car shell
> will consume, though it can be spread around on shelves in garage
rafters)
>
> * Tools you'll need include a trailer (or easy access to one), a chassis
> and engine dolly (you can make these) a good assortment of power and air
> tools, a blast cabinet is highly useful, as is a power washer or parts
> washer and a decent assortment of mechanics tools (only a few special
> sizes are necessary for a Sprite), a good workshop manual, a steady
supply
> of beer (either for consuming --celebrating victories and relaxing
> frustrations-- or for trading for parts... actually both).
>
> * If you're married, a supportive (or at least) tolerant spouse...:-)
>
> ** Find a shop that will paint the car for you the way you want it done.
> Lots of shops are only interested in doing insurance work.
>
> * If I were to do anything differently, I would probably have spent the
> money to strip the car professionally (either sandblasted or dipped) and
> had the interior surfaces powdercoated (yes, the right shop can do it)
Both
> these processes can be accomplished at around $800-1000, but would have
> saved an enourmous amount of time and aggravation.
>
> * you can view some progress photos on my website to get an idea.
> http://www.gerardsgarage.com
>
> I hope this helped, let me know if you have more questions.
>
> Gerard
>
>
> >Spridgeteers,
> >
> >I am beginning to think that the only way to get the car I want is to
get
> >into a project. There have been a few posted on PDLJMPR, "disassembled,
> >ready for paint, etc." Would anyone who has bought a car in the
partially
> >disassembled car have anything to say to some poor fool that is thinking
of
> >this insanity?
> >
> >I would be particularly interested in:
> >1. What you paid. Was it too much?
> >2. General condition of the car. How much body work was necessary? Did
you
> >do it yourself or hire someone to do it?
> >3. How long did it take you to finish the project?
> >4. How much space did you need/have for the project was it enough? Were
> >there any tools that you would not do the job without?
> >5. If you were doing it again, what would you look for in a car in
boxes?
> >6. Would you do it again?
> >
> >Anything you can tell someone about this kind of a project to bring me
to my
> >senses (I know that doesn't go with LBC syndrome) would be greatly
> >appreciated, even if I do decide to ignore all rational advice and do it
> >anyway.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Hal
> >mailto:faulkner@redshift.com
>
>
> G G Gerard Chateauvieux
> E A
> R R pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com
> A A
> R G Pixelsmith on Duty
> D E
> S http://www.gerardsgarage.com
>
>
>
>
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