spridgets
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Buying a "kit " car

To: "Hal Faulkner" <faulkner@redshift.com>
Subject: Re: Buying a "kit " car
From: Gerard Chateauvieux <pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 03:30:31 -0700
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
In-reply-to: <000b01beb775$d11c44e0$37c7cccf@haroldfa>
References: <006601beb74a$ce567cb0$3e9ee3cd@fnmoc>
Reply-to: Gerard Chateauvieux <pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Hal,

Since I am in the midst of doing exactly what you're asking about, I think
I am qualified to give you an expert opinion. First of all, it depends on
what you want as the end result.

Do you want a car that when assembled runs and looks somewhere between
mediocre and decent, or do you want something that is really sharp and put
together exactly like you want it?

It is very likely you can buy something mostly restored that you can
complete for less than doing all from scratch, and hope whoever did the
work did the job correctly. However, if you want something that you KNOW
has been put together right the way YOU want it done, and you enjoy the
PROCESS, then go the "kit" car route.

What you pay for the car will be insignificant( even if you spend $1000 or
$1500) compared to the number of hours you put into it, and what you will
spend on repainting and renewing worn out parts. Of course cheaper is
always better, but it's worth spending a little more on a solid candidate.
A stripped body will allow you to know strengths or shortcomings.

I am restoring a '68 that I received pretty much only the body and glass
(no drivetrain or suspension or interior. Between spare parts I already had
around from other cars, what I rounded up from friends and swap meets, I
now have everything I need to assemble a complete car. As soon as I get
past my paint obstacle, I'll be able to put my "kit " car together as I've
renewed and refurbished (or will before I'm done} just about every other
part for the car.

If you have the patience (I've spent around two years and easily over 1000
hours doing this. What keeps me going is the satisfaction that I will have
built an outstanding car, just the way I wanted it. It does get frustrating
and tedious at times but the end result is worth it (and I have a nice
running Bugeye to satisfy my driving fix). Of course, if you have the best
tool (a checkbook) at your disposal, you can get the job done a lot faster.

I don't know your skill level, but personally, I would stay away from cars
that need rust repair (there will be plenty else to do). I would not have
ventured into this project at all except for the rust free body. As far as
buying a car in boxes, make sure you know the car well enough to recognize
what might be missing, unless you can get it cheap enough where it doesn't
matter. A car that has had the body work done properly is a big advantage
too as this is what can get most costly.

Specifically,

* I did all the body work myself (staightening small dents, skimming with
metal glaze), will primer it myself, but will pay for a professional paint
job. (body was in excellent condition , but still needed lots of minor
cosmetic work to make right.

* You'll need a fair amount of space to store all the parts from a
completely disassembled car. (at least twice the space as the car shell
will consume, though it can be spread around on shelves in garage rafters)

* Tools you'll need include a trailer (or easy access to one), a chassis
and engine dolly (you can make these) a good assortment of power and air
tools, a blast cabinet is highly useful, as is a power washer or parts
washer and a decent assortment of  mechanics tools (only a few special
sizes are necessary for a Sprite), a good workshop manual, a steady supply
of beer (either for consuming --celebrating victories and relaxing
frustrations-- or for trading for parts... actually both).

* If you're married, a supportive (or at least) tolerant spouse...:-)

** Find a shop that will paint the car for you the way you want it done.
Lots of shops are only interested in doing insurance work.

* If I were to do anything differently, I would probably have spent the
money to strip the car professionally (either sandblasted or dipped) and
had the interior surfaces powdercoated (yes, the right shop can do it) Both
these processes can be accomplished at around $800-1000, but would have
saved an enourmous amount of time and aggravation.

* you can view some progress photos on my website to get an idea.
http://www.gerardsgarage.com

I hope this helped, let me know if you have more questions.

Gerard


>Spridgeteers,
>
>I am beginning to think that the only way to get the car I want is to get
>into a project. There have been a few posted on PDLJMPR, "disassembled,
>ready for paint, etc." Would anyone who has bought a car in the partially
>disassembled car have anything to say to some poor fool that is thinking of
>this insanity?
>
>I would be particularly interested in:
>1. What you paid. Was it too much?
>2. General condition of the car. How much body work was necessary? Did you
>do it yourself or hire someone to do it?
>3. How long did it take you to finish the project?
>4. How much space did you need/have for the project was it enough? Were
>there any tools that you would not do the job without?
>5. If you were doing it again, what would you look for in a car in boxes?
>6. Would you do it again?
>
>Anything you can tell someone about this kind of a project to bring me to my
>senses (I know that doesn't go with LBC syndrome) would be greatly
>appreciated, even if I do decide to ignore all rational advice and do it
>anyway.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Hal
>mailto:faulkner@redshift.com


G G              Gerard Chateauvieux
 E A
  R R        pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com
   A A
    R G          Pixelsmith  on  Duty
     D E
      S      http://www.gerardsgarage.com





<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>