I didn't seal frame members this way, but my hood (bonnet) at the front was
rusted
pretty bad inside, and since it was just $10 for the hood, compared to almost
$600
(once you pay truck freight) for a new one, I mixed up and poured some
fiberglass
resin down in there which hardened like glass (really? wow!) over the rusted
areas, filling in and sealing all the holes. I then re-created the lip using
more
resin and tape, sanded over it and painted it. That might be expensive to use
on
an entire car, but it's a thought!
adrian
Frank Clarici wrote:
> Lancer7676@aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I dont see how Waxoyl would actually seal a seam. Isnt it soft after the
> > petroleum evaporates? I am going to use rubberized undercoating or fiber
> > impregnated roofing compound, brushed firmly into the seams to force them
> > into the holes. Either of these dry and can, I understand, be painted over
> > if need be. Probably rubberized undercoating since it is made to adhere to
> > metal, but I have one restoration book where the author uses the fiber
> > impregnated roofing compound inside his door skins and other places to seal,
> > sound deaden, and insulate.
>
> I have used roofing cement (from a 5 gallon can) to seal, sound deaden,
> rust proof, my cars in the past with excellant results.
> Word of wisdom though, put it in/on AFTER you do any welding cause the
> stuff catches fire inside dog legs, hinge panels, etc.
> (How do I know this?)
>
> --
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
> Bugeye Sprite
> 67 Sprite
> 59 A40
> http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut/
--
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J. Adrian Barnes
adrian@icx.net
http://user.icx.net/~adrian/midget
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