Shawn (and others)
How do I determine which size bearings to get..can I size the journals with
good vernier/calipers? do I buy the same size as the ones I'm replacing or
go one up? It seems that this is all my engine really needs as the bores are
nice, compression is good...just the bearings along the crank and I s'pose a
new oil pump (I'm getting 60psi when cold) and maybe a new timing chain....
It runs fine but sounds a little harsh when getting to higher revs. An
A-series specialist from a morris minor workshop here in Melbourne assured
me that it was not 'knocking' but the crank that was making the noise. That
can't be too good over time.
I intend to drive it a long distance (1200 miles) fairly soon so I dont want
it seizing half way to queensland.
Andy
>From: Shawn Knight <eybdoogy@earthlink.net>
>To: Andy Webster <trunkie@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Oil Pressure
>Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:49:27 -0400
>
>You can just replace the bearing shells without doing anything to the
>crank.
>This is standard procedure for really old cars that have had the cranks
>machined
>as much as possible and no replacement cranks are available. You can
>"micropolish" the crank with some 600 grit sandpaper and a string, I got
>that
>trick from an engine blueprinting book I have. Regardless of the condition
>of
>your crank, if your bearings are worn, renewing them will result in an
>improvement in oil pressure.
>
>Shawn
>
>Andy Webster wrote:
>
> > Mike,
> > If I may enquire, who is the spring maker? After all the reports of
> > stiffness and poor ride height, I'm not real keen to shell out ~$400 for
> > unsatisfactory springs.
> > Also I put mobil 1 in my 1100 yesterday and the difference seems quite
> > remarkable. The engine seems to spin a lot easier. It's noticable
>especially
> > at start up when the engine no longer has that 'struggling' warm-up
> > period....Just turn it over and off she goes. Pressure at operating temp
> > seems mildy improved too, though I'm pretty sure my mains and big end
> > bearings are fairly worn..I would like to replace them..is there a way
>of
> > doing this without getting the crank ground etc. I have a spare 1100
>crank
> > that has no cracks, but the engine it's from was going to require 'line
> > boring'. I dont really know what this means but my point is.. could I
>get
> > bearings to fit this crank then install it in the engine thus minimizing
> > 'down time'?
> > Andy
> >
>
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