Mike,
If I may enquire, who is the spring maker? After all the reports of
stiffness and poor ride height, I'm not real keen to shell out ~$400 for
unsatisfactory springs.
Also I put mobil 1 in my 1100 yesterday and the difference seems quite
remarkable. The engine seems to spin a lot easier. It's noticable especially
at start up when the engine no longer has that 'struggling' warm-up
period....Just turn it over and off she goes. Pressure at operating temp
seems mildy improved too, though I'm pretty sure my mains and big end
bearings are fairly worn..I would like to replace them..is there a way of
doing this without getting the crank ground etc. I have a spare 1100 crank
that has no cracks, but the engine it's from was going to require 'line
boring'. I dont really know what this means but my point is.. could I get
bearings to fit this crank then install it in the engine thus minimizing
'down time'?
Andy
>From: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
>Reply-To: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
>To: "Frank Clarici" <spritenut@Exit109.com>, "Dave Hiley"
><dhiley@cadvision.com>
>CC: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Re-Arching Rear Springs
>Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:24:31 +1000
>
>I have had a bad experience with re-arched springs. 12 months later
>they had gone so soft that the car was no longer capable of being
>pushed hard.
>
>I went to a local spring maker and had a new set made up.
>
>I gave him the old set, told him old ride height, desired ride height and
>he
>got to it.
>
>Since good quality spring leaves are no longer available in the same
>thickness for the 1.5" width. He ended up using 4mm thick leaves.
>
>I have had these springs for a few years now. They are terriffic, top
>quality
>and as a bonus they were cheaper than the UK (made with chinese steel)
>replacement items.
>
>So, my advice is to go and speak to a spring maker. I found mine by
>talking to an engineering supply shop but the yellow pages will probably
>suffice.
>
>Mike
>
>
>
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