I would use the rear corners of the floorpan in front of the wheels. The
corners are pretty strong.
Ulix
On Tue, 16 Mar 1999, Bruce Woodward wrote:
> so, nobody wants to make a comment about how to mount my midget on the
> jackstands,eh? anybody try under the bumper at the mounting points? this
> is a mark II with semi elliptical springs.
>
>
> bruce@woodward-realty.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Woodward <brucewoodward@kconline.com>
> To: Jay Bourgraf <jaybird@isoc.net>; Lancer7676@aol.com
> <Lancer7676@aol.com>; spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, March 14, 1999 10:21 PM
> Subject: Re: More Welding!
>
>
> speaking of imploding. I'm just getting ready to start cutting out floor
> and rusted portions of rear bulkhead in interior. Past owner had welded
> plates over the rear spring plates to keep in place as fast fix. Now that I
> have broken leaft spring, I have to undo his "ingenuity".
>
> where can I place my jackstands at rear and still be able to remove leaf
> springs and axle and still keep spring mounting points accessible for
> cutting out and welding in new steel?
>
>
> bruce@woodward-realty.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jay Bourgraf <jaybird@isoc.net>
> To: Lancer7676@aol.com <Lancer7676@aol.com>; spridgets@autox.team.net
> <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, March 14, 1999 6:58 PM
> Subject: Re: More Welding!
>
>
> David,
> Maybe I can offer some advise, since I just finished this same job
> about a week ago.Your description of your car sounds identical to
> mine. I started with the "Practical Classics" Spridget restoration
> guide before I started cutting anything. The pictures are real bad
> quality but the text will tell you how to set the car up, prior to
> cutting, so it won't implode on you.
> For the inner sill, I just replaced enough to fix the rusted out
> area. This gave me a good base to line up the new sill to the
> remaining piece and the jacking point. I cut out about 90% of the
> outer sill. I left the top aft portion attached to the rear quarter
> with about 4-6 inches still remaining in front of the rear quarter
> (for alignment purposes). That way when you piece the new outer sill
> in, it will give you good clean lines all the way down the side.
> I went ahead and replaced the whole a-pillar. I bolted the inner
> portion to my door, mounted the door on the rear catch and shimmed it
> to a tight fit at the front edge of the rear quarter and the strip of
> outer sill left. Then tacked in the a-pillar.
> One the door is mounted and aligned in this manner, you have the
> door edges to align the remaining panels. The mounting of the door is
> the key, for everything else can be aligned to it.
> Take measurements before you start (assuming that its not sagging)
> for reference. Clip everything together with vise-grips and check for
> alignment before you weld. Tack weld the individual pieces first.
> Checkum again. Then finish welding and grinding.
> Using this method, I came up with excellent results. My floors,
> a-pillar, footwell and inner and outer rockers were removed all at one
> time. I was working with nothing but air. My door and fender
> alignments came out excellent.
> Hope this helps.
> Jay Bourgraf
> 65' MKIII Sprite
> 32' Plymouth Coupe
> 208" Nostalgia Dragster
>
>
>
>
Ulix __/__,__ ___/__|\__
..............................................(_o____o_)....<_O_____O_/...
'67 Sprite '74 X1/9
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