Scott,
I am no expert on internally regulated alternators (then why don't I just
shut up?), but here is how I see it.
* The alt needs an "exciter" voltage -> the wire from the coil (+)
* Its output goes to the battery -> the large terminal (+)
I think this is enough to make it work. (-) all goes through ground.
To make the dash light work, I would GUESS that you connect a wire to the
alt as you have it, and ground the other side of the dash light.
It sounds like you have the other side connected to (+) through the
ignition switch. Then again this may be correct if the alt grounds its
side of the dash light when it doesn't charge.
You could either try it out or find more info, i.e. manufacturer of the
alt, then maybe someone on the list uses the same one.
Ulix
On Mon, 28 Dec 1998, Scott & Glenda Meyers wrote:
>
>
> hello39@idt.net wrote:
>
> > Scott,
> > I recall a tech tip on the PDLJMPR site that Frank wrote a number of
> > yrs ago. Check it out, it might tell you and I know a number of
> > others may chime in with the answer, as well
> > Alan
>
> OK - it probably is not be a Lucas Alternator, as I looked at the
> explanation in the PDLJMPR site - mine closely resembles that Japanese
> alternator. It is *internally* regulated.
>
> It has one large terminal which obviously (?) goes to the positive
> battery post for charging purposes (10 gauge wire). It also has a small
> rectangular inset area with three 12 or 14 gauge blade/posts for
> running smaller wires.....where?
>
> ***What I really need to know is where should these smaller wires
> go?***
>
> Right now one goes to the + coil side.....?, and the other goes to a
> light on the dash (that lights before starting and goes out once the
> car is running).
>
>
>
> Additional information that might be useful......
>
> The DPO (the same one who had two 'hot' red leads going to the Stewart
> Warner Tach instead of one hot and one ground) also removed the
> original regulator. Not really a problem, since PDLJMPR gutted theirs
> and I have taken a few hours to totally rewire my car.
>
> I have a new ignition switch (off/accessory/run/start positions),
> electrically-switched solenoid, and fuse block mounted (the fuse block
> *inside* the car under the dash).
>
> * A 10 gauge hot lead goes from the battery to the battery post on the
> new ignition switch, which has battery/accessory/ignition/start posts
> on the back.
>
> * From the accessory post I have a 10 gauge wire going to the new six
> fuse fuse block. All lights, turn signals, wipers, etc. now come from
> there. This post is live for both the accessory key position and the
> run key position.
>
> Note - Running lights, headlights, wipers, and electric fuel pump are
> controlled by separate switches.
>
> * From the ignition post runs two wires - one to the dash light, and
> the other to the + coil terminal.
>
> * From the start post a 10 gauge wire runs the the start post on the
> electrically-switched solenoid.
>
>
> Thanks again for your expertise.
>
> Scott Meyers
> 60 Bugeye 1275
> Competition, not concourse......
>
Ulix __/__,__ ___/__|\__
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'67 Sprite '74 X1/9
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