I use 1 trolley jack and a pair of axle stands.
Jack the rear of the car up nice and high. Put the axle stands somewhere
strong (I like the forward spring hanger).
With the trolley jack under the diff housing, jack up the rear suspension
a little (1" - 2" should be OK, just make sure you aren't lifting the
body as well) and loosen and remove the u-bolt nuts. Lowering the
trolley jack will now leave that side drooping down, with enough room
to easily add the lowering block and replacing the u-bolts etc etc.
After doing everything up (you'll need to jack up the rear suspension again)
repeat on the other side.
You can use the jack centered or off-center. While off-centre makes more
sense in theory, I personally find I get too cramped for room.
If you haven't bought lowering blocks from a major supplier (i.e. you've
got a block of alloy), you'll need to add relief for the spring pinch bolt.
If you have lots of horsepower or intend competing, you might also want to
add a locating pin on the underside as well.
The whole job is reasonably simple and doesn't take too long.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: chuckc <chuckc@ibm.net>
To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 7:38 AM
Subject: Install Rear Lowering kit
>Hi Ho!
>
>Anybody got a tried and true procedure for installing
>lowering blocks and long u-bolts in the rear of
>a 1275 spridget?
>
>I assume (!) I gotta first jack up the body to undo the
>nuts on the old u bolts, then somehow keep the body up
>while letting the axle down to get in the spacer, then
>re-jack the axle back up to the body to install and
>nut the u bolts. Sounds nice, but seems fraught with
>potential pain.
>
>I could use some basic reassurance here, before I lose an
>arm.
>
>chuck
>
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