Scott,
The newer dual set up pedal box is wider and shorter than the earlier
one. You will definitely have to remove metal around the original
opening. You can cut and flare your own lines but will need to do the
british flare or double bubble some call it. You can purchase pre cut
and made up lengths with the proper ends and bend to desired curves
also. The newer fitting are one size larger also on the pedal box.
A pipe bending tool is a must usually around $5.00 in order not to
collapse the radius as you bend and form various configurations.
The rear backing plate is a nice swap and allows you to use the dual
action rear wheel cylinders from the square bodied spridgets.
Good luck
Alan
Scott & Glenda Meyers wrote:
> I am about to attempt a conversion of a stock Bugeye setup to the
> later model master cylinders.
>
> (I have front disc brakes already, but will be adding the later
> rear brakes and backing plates).
>
> I have the pedals and cylinders from a 'retired' Midget.
>
> It appears to be rather more than a "bolt-in" operation. Perhaps
> 'operation' is a very appropriate term?
>
> Is it true that (evidently) I will have to cut out a section of
> metal around the original support frame for the stock Bugeye
> setup to fit the newer framework? Is this as straightforward as
> it seems, or is the a more complicated journey?
>
> It is a real pain to form new brake lines and ends to fit the new
> locations of the double cylinder setup, or easier than it seems
> (I've never done any before)? Will I need a speciall tool for
> this (I seem to recall that British fittings are not 'usual')?
>
> Anything else to watch out for?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott Meyers
> 60 Bugeye for Solo II in Arizona
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