Dave Wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 1998 18:03:00 -0600 Dave Hiley <dhiley@cadvision.com>
writes:
>Hello,
>
>I now have 320 miles on my 1275 rebuild and have developed an oil leak
>from
>the left side of the block under the headers. I cannot be positive
>but the
>only place I can figure is the head gasket is leaking. Seems to
>diminish
>greatly or perhaps even stop when the engine reaches full operating
>temp.
>I have a few questions to put to the list:
>1. When I re-torqued the head after the initial 25 minute start
>period, and
>once since then, I did it as I was instructed. ie I loosened each nut
>individually and then re-torqued to 50lb one at a time. Should I have
>loosened them all first and then tightened them in order? Is this
>best
>done when the engine is warm or stone cold?
Some controversy on hot vs. cold. I have always done cold for the last
25 years or so and have not had any problems. The re-torque routine
should follow the same sequence of tightening as the first time. Start
in the middle and work to each end, loosening each first. The new type
studs from Vizard may not need to be re-torqued.
>2. I put in 10-1 pistons but the head and block were just trued up.
>The
>head gasket was not copper/steel but was one (presumably
>asbestos/steel)
>included in a rebuild kit from WC. Because I purchased the pistons
>there I
>inquired whether the gasket I had was adequate and was given
>assurances.
>(The gaskets came in a blue and white box - can't remember the brand
>name)
>Because of the higher compression, should I have automatically gone to
>the
>other style gasket? Opinions please.
The compression ratio has nothing to do with this oil leak. In the front
left corner of the block and head is the oil delivery hole to the rocker
assembly. The gasket has a small hole their to seal it. The newer type
gasket, dark grey with only only metal sealing around the cyls and water
and oil holes, I have had a very high failure rate. I no longer use
them. The old copper gaskets I use with a high tack adhesive like NAPA
765-1223 on the block, cyl head, and both sides of the gasket. Then
assemble in the normal way and so far I have never had a failure.
Learned this from the Mini crowd over 20 years ago.
You stated that both the block deck and the cyl head had been skimmed
prior to assembly, so they are likely not to blame. The gasket isn't
sealing the oil hole properly. Solution: replace the cyl head gasket.
>TIA
>dave
>'72 MKIII
>
>
Paul Asgeirsson
Morriservice
503-978-3998
PAsgeirsson@juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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