> How tight to tighten the u-bolt nuts on the rear springs? Seems that since
> they are being tightened against poly, one could just keep tightening for
> quite a while compressing the poly bushings. Should I do so? Is there a
> correct torque for these bolts?
There is no torque value. You have to use your own judgement. I would
torque them until you see the bushings get slightly squished, then recheck
after a couple of weeks.
> When replacing the rotor on the distributor I forgot to take note of which
> direction it was facing. Haynes says if you put it on wrong the timing
> will be off 180 degrees. Did I get lucky and guess right if the car is
> running ok? Does timing being off by 180 mean it wouldn't start or run
> anywhere near smooth?
It wouldn't start if 180deg off.
> As part of the distributor service I tried to check the vacuum unit. The
> Motorhead tape says to put a hose on it and suck air through it. You are
> supposed to get a very slight movement of the plate and not be able to draw
> air through freely. Well, I can't draw air through freely, but I saw no
> movement. Does this indicate a problem?
Yes. You can further check this when you get the timing light to work by
reving the car with and w/o the vacuum connected. For now you could check
that the vacuum unit moves freely etc.
> In a related issue, seems like when I turned the little fine tuning knob I
> got no real change in timing. When Rob Medynski the wizard mechanic tuned
> me up in April I could hear the difference when he turned the knob. Can
> anyone think of something I might have done to make this inoperable, i.e.,
> put the rotor in backwards? :)
This might be related to the problem above. You should check that the
vacuum unit and the knob can actually move the base plate.
> When I tried to use the Unisync, I couldn't get the little plastic float to
> move at all. I screwed the air flow gadget in the center of the Unisync up
> and down but no joy at any setting. Anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong?
Tightening down the little plate will reduce the area for the air to pass
through and should make the ball come up. If you tighten it too much, it
will come out the rear of the unisyn and increase the slot again.
Move it so that the least amount of space for the air to pass through and
try again.
> Why didn't the timing light work? I bought a direct connect light. I
> detached number one spark plug wire and attached the spark lead from the
> light. Then I attached the positive lead to the positive battery terminal
> and the negative lead to battery negative. Started the car and squeezed
> the trigger. No light. My mistake(s)? I can see now that using a light
> on these cars is a bear considering where the timing marks are located, but
> I bought the light already, doubt I can find the receipt and I might as
> well learn how it is =supposed= to work. :)
I don't know what kind of light this is, but if you have to disconnect the
spark plug wire from the spark plug, you then have to connect the wire to
the timing light and another wire from the light to the spark plug. Did
you do this?
The battery supplies the power and the spark plug wire connection tells
the light when to flash.
Ulix __/__,__
.......................................................... (_o____o_)....
'67 Sprite
|