On Wed, 24 Jun 1998, Philip Hubbard wrote:
> Repaired threads on shock lever arm pinch bolt hole.
> Need to buy a longer 5/16"x24 bolt than I have now to replace. (Grade 5,
> yes?)
I think I remember that the "right" length is just between two obtainable
lengths of bolt. I used bolts that are a little short of using most of
the available thread, plus they are threaded all the way instead of having
a shoulder. A better way might be to shorten a longer shouldered bolt.
> When I refit the hub/rotor assembly onto the stub axle on the driver's
> side, the brakes grabbed worse than before. However they did grab evenly
> so I know my old rotors were somewhat warped. How to adjust for this? The
> instructions that came with the brake disks were unclear to me on this
> point. Also, when I put the brakes on, the brake pads were actually even
> tighter on the rotor. I removed the brake caliper again to think about it
> and ask list advice.
How bad do they grab? A little bit of drag is normal. A good check is to
put the wheel back on and turn it. If you can really feel the drag with
the wheel on, it's too much. Definitely check/replace your brake hoses
(this is an item that is MEANT to be replaced regularly, not an "if it
ain't broke don't fix it" item).
> I didn't originally order new brake pads when I started this job and
> realize I should have. Will this also solve my grabbing problem do you
> suppose? Adjusting the pistons in the calipers as part of the pad
> refitting will solve the problem?
No, it won't make a difference. If your old pads are still good, you
might want to keep them. Many sources recommend breaking in new rotors
with old pads, i.e. not changing pads and rotors at the same time. OTOH,
I have changed pads/rotors together and had no problems.
Ulix __/__,__
.......................................................... (_o____o_)....
'67 Sprite
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