Brian and others who have all tried to help me with this one...
Yes, I had considered that it was broken and that is why I have been trying
to figure out a test procedure.
My difficulties are exacerbated by not having a spare tacho to try, and not
even being able to pull the thing out of the wooden dash (but Yes, it is
earthed).
I still need some help with this, so if you have the patience, I'd
appreciate you reading on to see if you can assist me further.
On the weekend I ...
Checked it was earthed - yes
Checked it got power through the Green wire onto the spade connector - yes
Screwed the plastic loop holder onto the little treaded post. Tried it with
and without my home made "U shaped piece of metal". (it is quite tricky
trying to fabricate a part you have never seen!
## Question - has anyone got a picture of this part that they can refer me
to, or send to me?
##Question - what about a picture of the loop?
##Question - is the U shaped piece of metal essential?
It turns out that the size of the loop can be varied as the wire slips
through the plastic loop holder.
##Question - is 1" in diameter for the loop right?
The way my loop natuarly falls, it is suspended parallel to the back of the
instrument and extends from the small post, upwards ie the opposite
direction to gravity. (I suspect that isn't all that clear, but I can't
think of a better description).
##Question - I know that one (white) wire goes from the key, around the
loop and then onto the coil. Therfore, if there was a break in that wire,
the car wouldn't start - right?
Given all the above, I figure that either
1. My bit of "U" shaped metal is wrong (Highly Likely);
and/or
2. My placement of, and size of loop is wrong (quite possible);
and/or
3. The tacho is broken (that's what I'm trying to find out)
##Question - can anyone think of any other possibilities?
Thanks again for all tha assistance I have received so far.
Greg
>Greg wrote
>>One thing I'll try is to fabricate a U shaped piece of metal to place on
>>top of the plastic encased wire between the plastic and the nut - right?
>>I'll try that first.
>
>>Also, can anyone comment on the likely effectiveness of the following TEST
>>procedure:
>
>>1. Make sure the Tach has got a good earth
>
>If it is mounted in the dash the mounting bracket should take care of the
>ground.
>
>>2. Check the Green wire to the spade connector is a power wire
>
>The green wire should be hot if the ignition switch is on.
>
>>3. Run a piece of wire from the SW side of the coil (the non-distributor
>>side) to the small threaded post on the back of the tach, form that wire
>>into a loop around the post and either hold it there or hold it in place
>>with a washer and nut. Run the other end of the wire to the connector on
>>the key.
>
>If the plastic incased wire that you have is a loop then this should be what
>goes over the small threaded post and no other wire is required. This wire
>should be white and should be continuous from the ignition switch, through the
>loop and to the coil SW terminal. Unless modified this line should not have
>any connectors or terminal blocks from the ignition switch to the coil. If
>the plastic encased wire does not fit this description then what you described
>in item 3 is the same thing with out the plastic. If you have to do item 3
>then I think that the loop needs to be held in plastic. The loop is a
>current loop and its size, location and direction is important. Testing my
>memory I think the loop is about 1 inch in diameter and sets about 1/8 of an
>inch away from the back of the instrument.
>
>Other wise sounds right to me for what that's worth.
>
>Good Luck
>
>Bob and Ann
>60 Sprite
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