I've rebuilt the front end on my '68 Midget. I replaced one inner bearing
that got butchered in the removal and a new inner seal (a kind I had never
seen--has a metal skirt around the side where you usually can see the seal and
spring). I greased the hub and drifted in the bearing and seal with the
spacer, like usual, "offered it up" to the axel stub, and "pushed" on using
the force of the axel nut. It went on pretty easily, but definitely could not
be pushed on by hand. I tightened the nut, aligned the hole with a castle
slot and....well, the hub's too tight! The "tightness" is consistent around
all 360 degrees, but it takes two hands on the hub to turn it. Could the
grease seal be doing this? I didn't have a socket to properly torque the nut,
but I think the manual calls for 40 ft/lbs and I gave it about 40 on a box
wrench using the "elbow torque wrench method." Any ideas?
While I'm bothering you, another question: I plan to vintage race this car
and have installed shim plates under the shocks to give me more negative
camber. The plates look to be a but 3/8 thick. I used standard offset
polyurethane upper bushings, but have a set of "negative camber offset"
bushings as well. Should I use them, or will the spacers give me what I'm
looking for. I don't want to be so knock-kneed on the track that my braking is
compromised. Advice of any vintage racing sages out there?
Thanks in advance.
--John Deikis
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