I'm not sure what you are trying to say you did to "help" get some clearance. B
However, lots of times, putting a Weber on reveals leaks that were not
noticeable before. B When I put a DGV on my Spit, oil started spurting out the
dip stick tube.I guess with the different fittings, the intake was not sucking
out enough fumes from the crankcase and enough blowby was getting by the rings
to pressurize the block. B This may be your problem too, and you may not have
inadvertenly broken the seal between block and oil pan. B What Weber did you
put on? B DGV or DCOE? B Both can result in the same leaks occuring.
Anyway, to answer your question... B People have changed crank and rod
bearings with the engine in the car, so "Yes" you can remove the oil pan. B You
might have to turn the crankshaft a bit to let the pan wiggle out - depends on
where the connecting rod throws are. B 1/4 to 1/2 a turn should be enough if
the pan is hitting the crank when you try to remove the pan. B You may find it
easier to lift the engine a bit to get the oil pan out. Once out, clean the
surfaces, put on the new gasket with sealer on both sides (one side at a time
of course...) and re-install. B I tend to always tighten bolts in a "star
pattern". B One on the right front, then one on the left rear, then one on the
left front, then one on the right rear and so on. B Slightly snug first, then a
little tighter, then fully tight. B I could look up the spec, but loose is
loose, tight is tight, and overtight breaks bolts. B As long as you don't just
start on one bolt and go around the engine tightening them all the way, you are
probably not going to have problems.
Then you can run it again and see if new leaks develop. B If not - problem
solved! B If there are leaks, we can talk about ideas for eliminating crankcase
pressures.
Joe Guinan (just back from the Kastner Cup at Road America in Wisconsin)
Fremont, NE
NASS Member #31
spitfirejoe@email.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2013 21:22:23 -0500
> From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
> To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Spits] removing oil pan
> Message-ID: <519AA3E11B08441E9C13ED4B37072293@Datsun>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> 75 spitfire
>
> put in a header and a weber
>
> apparently the clearance between the engine and the frame, even with the
> engine mounts loosened, was not quite enough. required a little help.
>
> not such a good idea; you can see on the header the oil, which of course makes
> for extra fun while driving. the leak clearly is right at the joint b
> thatbs where the stain starts on the header.
>
> I figure I need to remove the oil pan, possibly straighten it, and put in a
> new gasket.
>
> any big deal? just drain the oil, unbolt the thing, and then the reverse?
> torque in any particular order? anyone know the spec?
>
> just a little gun shy b when I was a teenager I attempted to remove the
> oilpan on a slant 6 chrysler, and found that between the steering rack (I
> think) and the frame, the oil pan would not come out. I believe I had to
> cancel a date that night because then I had no car. or at least postpone it.
> did not put me in her good stead. she married someone else . . .
>
>
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> End of Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 57
> ****************************************
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