It sounds like a loose ground on the fuel sender...
1. Check the voltage between the Chassis and the Black wire of the sender
(should be 0 volts. If it's greater than 0, then you have and loose ground)
2. Check voltage between chassis and the Green/Black wire of the sender
(should be around 9 -10 volts for a full tank)
3. Check voltage between chassis and the Green/Black wire of the gauge
(should be around 9 -10 volts for a full tank)
4. Since your temperature gauge is working, I doubt it is the voltage
stabilizer but check the voltage from chassis to the light green wire of the
gauge. It should be 10 volts.
Gene Eighmy
Birmingham, AL
>
> Before I get into the issue I'm experiencing I want to let folks know
> that I have used the archive info to install a new sender unit in the
> tank, which seems to be working. I didn't see anything in the archive
> that describes my particular problem. So here goes. All electrical
> items in the car appear to work fine including the Temp Gauge, which I
> believe is in line with the Fuel Gauge, at least according to the
> schematic.
>
>
>
> When I start the Spit up the fuel gauge needle moves and gives me a
> reading which I believe is pretty accurate, knowing how much I drive and
> when the last time I got gas was. The problem occurs after about 15
> minutes or so of driving the car, when the needle in the gauge drops
> back to empty. One time after driving longer the gauge came back to
> life and was fine that day. Most of the time once the needle in the
> gauge drops down to empty it never reads correctly again even across
> engines starts and stops driving that day. It seems to want to really
> settle like over-night before the gauge comes back to life again.
> Like I said, the Temp Gauge continues to operate fine during this whole
> time
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