I actually ended up combining the two ideas - a long bolt with
a piece of metal flashing cut and then wrapped around the
bolt so it acted as a friction pin, an extra pivoting point and
a sacrificial surface to the threads (as well as removing some
slop). Doug's point is very well taken though and if you have a
bolt with too much threads, ideally you should fill the
extra threads in with something - JB Weld perhaps?
Best!
Greg Rowe
>From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
>Reply-To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
>To: Jim Muller <jimmuller@rcn.com>, spitfires@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Spit] clutch pin query
>Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2007 20:42:11 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Try real hard to find a bolt that has the unthreaded
>section sufficiently long to keep the threads from
>bearing much of the load. Using a threaded bolt
>as a hinge pin or clevis pin can be a bad idea,
>because
>the threads will cut into the other parts and/or get
>chewed up themselves.
>
>If you feel like being a purist and using the
>original-style pin and sleeve: the sleeve is a bit of
>corrugated thin springy sheet metal rolled into a
>cylinder. Its role is to hold the pin in place.
>If the old was was stil there, you could probably
>push it (or its fragments) out with a long bolt.
>But I really wonder why they went with a design where
>the pin could just fall out...
>
>Doug Braun
>'72 Spit
>
>--- Bob Berger <bberger720@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> > Jim,
> >
> > This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware
> > store that is long enough
> > that it has +/- 2" of unthreaded shaft and is the
> > correct size to fit in the
> > hole. I think the shaft is 1/4" or 3/8". Drop this
> > in from the top and
> > then for additional safety thread a nyloc nut onto
> > the end. The nut does
> > not need to be completely tightened down. This will
> > serve as a new pin and
> > will not fall out in the future.
> >
> > Bob Berger
> > 78 Spitfire
>
>
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