On Wednesday, May 12, 2004, at 10:30 AM, Barry Schwartz wrote:
> I am about ready to refinish the dash on the wife's Spitfire resto. I
> am
> leaning towards using contact cement(Scotch 90 high strength), but
> thought
> I would check to see if anybody has had any experience good or bad with
> using it, or possibly a suggestion for using something else if that
> isn't
> suitable.
For years now I've been using Brownell's Epoxy for all my wood work
repairs that require any sort of strength. It comes in two types, a
liquid
and a paste. I get this at a local sporting good store, the fellow there
uses it on shotgun stocks, old wooden fishing rods, etc. The paste is
good as it stays where you put it. The liquid you can drip into
a "green stick" crack or similar damage.
My walnut shift knob split a few years ago, I used the paste epoxy
to fix that.
> The dash will still have the original varnish (it won't be
> removed) but it will be sanded before applying the adhesive.
I'm no expert on wood work, but I do think you should remove the
varnish. The popular "Homer Formby's" stripper is excellent as it
doesn't remove the patina. WalMart carries it and I imagine most
of the home repair stores do.
> I am adding
> an oil gauge to the center just because I believe there should have
> been
> one originally. It should look really nice when done.
I did the same thing. How can you have a sports car without an oil
gauge?
> The real wood veneer is very thin, approx 1/32nd of an inch thick so I
> need
> something that won't bleed through - plus, anybody have a source for
> white
> transfer letters??? I used to be able many years ago to buy them but
> with
> the advent of computers, transfer type letters are practically
> obsolete.
Any good hobby shop should have those - the wet kind and the dry rub
kind
are still used for dioramas and things. My son uses them for his
science projects,
too. I just entered "dry transfer letters" into Google and got back
4,700 hits from
various hobby shops online.
Ken Strayhorn
Hillsborough NC
'72 MkIV
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