At 10:37 PM 5/19/03 -0500, Geoff Heyland wrote:
>What's the diagnostic process for confirming a bad coil? I figure, once I
>eliminate the electrical issue, I can move on to the carbs. I have seen a
>diagnostic checklist somewhere, but I can't find it, and the Haynes diagnostic
>refers to things that simply don't exist on my car (a North American Spit -
>not UK).
Determine if the coil is bad first by seeing if you're even getting power
TO the coil. Using a test light, connect the leads to each side of the
terminals on the coil and then crank the starter. The test light should go
on every time the points close in the distributor. Flash, flash, flash.
If it doesn't, then you need to determine if the power is failing from the
distributor or the ignition power circuit. Check the positive side of the
coil with the test light against ground with the key on to see if the coil
is getting power. If the car is positive grounded, then use the negative
terminal for the same test.
If the light goes on, great!
If it doesn't, you aren't getting power from the key. That could be the
ballast wire from the ignition circuit. Temporarily bypass with a wire
from the battery or key on item.
So, the light does go on, now what? The coil isn't getting the return path
for the current from the distributor. Time to find out if the distributor
is working. Using your test light, verify the points on the distributor is
actually working. If not, then start troubleshooting there. Disconnect
the condensor if you suspect it's failed by shorting internally.
I hope this helps out.
-Vegaman Dan
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