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Oh,hmm. So that's how it works...

To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, triumph_herald@yahoogroups.com,
Subject: Oh,hmm. So that's how it works...
From: "Scott A. Roberts" <herald1200@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 00:13:20 -0400
Well, I just bought something I generally hate- I went out and bought a Haynes
manual. Not because I needed info in general- I specifically was looking for
info on the HS2's I've chosen to equip the Herald with. But, I couldn't find
the one on Weber-Zenith-Stromberg-SU(10240) Pep Boys locally no longer carried
it. I ended up with 1962-81 Spitfire(94007) from Borders. However, for what I
needed, it is fine. Gives me a bit more about the carbs than the factory
manual I swear by in most cases. So, as I am perusing this little repository
of annoying but useful facts,  I discover something wondrous. RPM for idle
with HS2's is 750-800 RPM. 750- 800. That might explain why my experiments in
futility vis.-a-vis. idle setting in the 550RPM range have failed to come to
terms with requirements, and so far been total frustration. I had suspected so
many things, yet failed to consider the simple option of it being different
than the B30PSE1. SO, on tomorrow's docket will be readjust to 750-800RPM, and
induce solid idle.

In order to achieve a stable set of carbs to operate with, I have gone through
and remanufactured them to the best of my somewhat limited skill. Tearing them
completely down this morning, I found I could induce a little wobble into the
throttle shafts. This could account for some idle problems. Also, I noted a
slight egginess to the shape of one of the jets. Having in my possession a
reasonably new set of jets, (one never used, the other apparently new but
installed and removed) I set about my rebuild. A quick trip to the hardware
store for bronze bushings, 1/4i.d.x5/16o.d.x3/4l would satisfy the potentially
ovaled shaft holes. I could not locate brass rod stock, so had to forego
building new throttle shafts. I also purchased the 5/16 drill bit, to be sure
I had a good one. Returning home, I drilled through the main body, and pressed
in my new throttle shaft bushings. Fit nicely with a light interference fit.
One required a little red locktite, but all was well. The dremel tool cut off
the extra length, and a little filing smoothed all out.

Having finished the hard work, I set about reassembly, and all went smoothly,
into starting the vehicle on the newly reconstructed SU's. A startup led to an
initial idle around 2k RPM's but it was smooth as glass. I adjusted it down to
550, but she started getting antsy again. (Part of the problem this time might
just be the vacuum leak resultant from my forgetting to hook up the dizzy
advance line...) I gave up for the evening, and have come in for the night, to
ponder and toil again tomorrow.

Now, with regard to the needles- I have a set of "AN" needles, which are
apparently original to the Mk I & II Spitfires. I also have a set of "DD"
needles which I just put into use tonight. What are they from? What are the
real differences? The "DD"s look slightly thicker along the length of the
taper than "AN"s, but I really did not measure. Also, about the fuel bowls-
why are there two different types? I found I have a set of two with fuel
outlets to the pipe which are about 1/8" round, and the other two are 1/4"
square holes to the pipe area... Is the smaller one the older design?

The one other item I got finished tonight, was the discovery that there is not
sufficient room for my electric retractable radio antenna in the spot I chose
and cut my 1" hole into. Now I will be using the solid whip antenna there,
until I find a plan B. I should have a working am/fm/CD in there tomorrow. :)
Although I do love the sound of the car sans...

Well, this note is long enough. Suffice it to say the car looks great, and I
can't wait till she is firmly running well(although she has not been shabby so
far. But usually running way too rich- black powdered plugs!)

Scott
64 Herald 12/50 Convertible

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