Most importantly, your rear wheel bearings need greasing. DO THIS NOW!
You should also grease your rear axle and prop-shaft UJs, if they are not
the sealed-for-life type - but I have yet to find a way to get a grease
nipple onto these (the idea in theory is that there is a hole in the spider
plugged with a grub screw, which you remove and replace with a grease nipple
when they need greasing - nice theory, but access is impossible. I have
heard of ones with a grease nipple in each cap, but never seen it).
On a Spit, these are the only parts that you need a grease gun for (I seem
to remember my MGB having something like 8 or 9 greasing points).
You should also grease your handbrake cable by smearing grease over it where
it runs through its guides, and over the lever mechanism under the centre of
the car.
You should also remove the dust covers in the centre of the front hubs and
smear plenty of grease around there - in combination with adjusting the
end-float (see your Haynes Manual!). This is another
more-easily-said-than-done task, as those dust covers usually resist all
attempts at removal (I have heard some tricks that I can let you know, but
not tried them yet myself).
Actually, I've just had an idea - why not simply fit grease nipples to the
dust caps? Then you can pump grease in there without even having to worry
about taking them off! Moreover, you can pump it in with a bit of pressure,
which may do a much better job of forcing fresh grease into the bearings
than simply smearing it around a bit. Or would the grease not get in there
if you didn't have the nut and washer off for an end-float adjustment (can't
remember exactly what it looks like in there)? Anyone tried this??
Ah, just thought of the catch. Unless there is somewhere for the old grease
to come out (would it just squeeze out of the back?) you may end up pumping
up the pressure inside and just forcing the dust-cap off. Well, if nothing
else I've just invented an new way of removing recalcitrant dust-caps!!
Richard & Daffy
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