The 1500 Competition manual recommends you use longer rods, and mount the
chassis bracket at the inboard position, which is unused on the Spitfire.
Relocating the mounting point further inboard would better align it with the
u-joint, resulting in less toe change through the vertical motion of the tire.
If one were to wish to go to the trouble of fabricating an adjustable rod, I'd
suggest going all the way and following the competition manuals advise on using
a longer rod. Two heim joints and threaded tube are all that is needed to make
a rod, all available through racing supply catalogs and aircraft equipment
suppliers.
>>> "Catchpole, Pat" <Pat.Catchpole@ntc-europe.co.uk> 02/21/02 12:47PM >>>
The rear wheel toe-in / toe-out alignment on the majority of 'our cars' is
set by the insertion of shims between the Rear Tie Rod and the Rear Floor
Tie Rod Brackets. I say a majority of our cars as the ones with rotoflex
rear ends used a tie rod that had a LH / RH screw adjuster in the middle of
it. By turning the centre hex head the tie rod would grow and shrink
accordingly. I don't think these rotoflex tie rods have been available for
years as far as I know.
I have now found that if you can do a bit of welding then you can create
your own screw adjustable tie rod by utilising parts from the rear
suspension of a Nissan Bluebird in Europe - also known as the Altima or
Sentra in the US - models up to 1990. I know there are loads of these cars
in UK scrap yards with bits available for only a few pounds, I presume the
same in the US.
To be honest I am not sure what the real advantage of the screw adjustment
type, expect that it may be a little for precise and probably a bit quicker
- I've always just fancied having this type.
I am sure these screw adjusters have many other uses, so when next time at
the scrappie it would be worth seeking some out. A friend of mine reckons
it will solve the bonnet setting problems he is having on his Herald, by
inserting the adjusters in the hinge tube assembly!
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