First off was it running rich before the rebuild? What else was changed?
The needle will make a difference, you must ensure that the set screw and the
housing are in their proper position or the needle may not move up or down
when turned. Clockwise richens the mixture, counter leans.
The needle itself is subject to wear, for $25 you can purchase a new one. The
port / jet / seat that the needle goes into is also subject to wear - pull
the carb apart and stick in a drill bit the size of the needle, shine a
flashlight and see if it is oversized or shows other wear. If there is wear
you can send it off to have it line bored and a new seat installed. The cost
there is, guessing, $150 plus, you may want to puchase a carb from someone.
Try not to interchange the carb pistons as they are supposedly made to fit
each body.
Sometimes the choke will be faulty or have internal wear and allow fuel to
pass directly through the port into the intake even when the choke isn't
actuated.
Other moving parts may have wear in them as well allowing the mixture to be
other than proper.
If when you are cruising at a steady speed, say in fourth gear at 2500 rpm's
and the car seems to want to stall or gurggles, you give it more throttle and
it picks right up, you should suspect float level, it is likely too high.
If you have problems getting the idle down to proper and being steady look
into the bypass valve opposit the choke - you can remove the valve and block
off the ports, if its idle smooths out you need to replace / rebuild with new
diaphrams / gaskets.
Please add and correct to this message where necessary.
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