The problem that I have had with crimp connectors is that they tend to
corrode over time or wiggle loose. If they are properly sized for the wire
they might be fine. What I usually see are the big blue ones crimped on
little wires. They will work loose. The other thing that crimp on
connectors tend to do is cut the strands if put on too tight. This will
also lead to premature failure. The outside strands are cut and this allows
the inside strands to just slip out. Now with solder connections for wire
to wire I put the wire together with a I think it is called a Western Union
splice, wrap wire one around wire 2 and wrap wire 2 around wire 1, place the
soldering iron on the small parallel spot in the middle of the joint, and
heat the wires. Allow solder to soak into wires. Solder will be sucked
into the wires once it is hot enough. Now you have me on the 50 years later
point. My connections haven't been around that long!
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Schaper <mschaper@gvpt.umd.edu>
To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 9:59 PM
Subject: RE: Soldering wire
>
> I have to jump in on this one. Soldering is a good idea whenever you
connect wire to a non-moving object (like a PCB) or two non-moving objects
together. But I do think that soldering is not appropriate for wire to wire
connections in cars.
>
> Have you ever worked on the wiring in VW beetle from the 50s? By now all
the solder has oxidized broken loose, solder joints have broken off, and it
is just a big mess. Each time I work on one of these I wished they had just
crimp connections - even the two-way bullet connectors for the Spit
headlights are superior to deteriorating soldered connections.
>
> Do not use solder to join strands of wire together that go under a screw
terminal. The solder is too soft and the wires will work loose eventually
(one of the VW problems).
>
> If you do not want to crimp - and they are reasons for doing this - use
screw terminals, like Euro Barrier strips (Radio Shack has them).
>
> And now if you still do want to solder: the right way to do it is:
>
> 1. Heat up one wire, than let solder melt on it (the wire, not the iron),
make sure it soaks through
> 2. Do the same thing for the other wire, or the part it is supposed to go
on.
> 3. Now join the two presoldered part and touch them with the iron so that
the solder in both parts melts into one piece.
>
> Remember, you want to solder the parts together not glue them with solder.
If you are done and it still looks like to separate parts - heat it up again
and redo it.
>
> Marcus
> (certified Radio- and TV-technician)
>
> >>> "Simmons, Reid W" <reid.w.simmons@intel.com> 7/12/00 20:02:29 >>>
>
> No it truly isn't rocket science but about half of all those I have
> encountered in the workplace over the years who have been trained and
> believe they can solder produce some really awful results.
>
> Although I never personally liked wire-wrap it did prove to be superior to
> soldering and properly done crimps can be too especially when compared to
> bad soldering.
>
> Reid
> '79 Spitfire (original owner)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John & Tracy Knox [mailto:jknox@erie.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 4:27 PM
> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
> Subject: Soldering wire
>
>
>
> Just saw the post and had to reply. Soldering wire is not rocket science.
> I can show anyone how to solder in a couple of minutes. Heck, the
> directions in most soldering irons are pretty good. I see way too many
> crimp on connectors. Or the even worse squeeze EZ connectors. If the
wires
> are worth putting together for more than five minutes it's best to just
> solder them.
>
> John
>
>
>
|