Steve, my experience:
I tried hammering upwards on the shaft right near the joint, to no avail.
Pickle fork kind of separator was a major pain because the tines of the fork
were too wide to engage properly.
Now, I use two hammers, each on opposite sides of the joint at the same
time, or with one against the joint and the other striking the joint from
the other side. From what I've been told, the idea is to compress opposite
sides of the joint so that it is momentarily slightly oval. This breaks the
seal and forces it out.
This method is easy, doesn't require a huge amount of force, and has worked
every time.
Good luck
Nick Moseley
-----Original Message-----
From: SMatson802@aol.com <SMatson802@aol.com>
To: spitfires@autox.team.net <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 9:58 AM
Subject: Steve M and the magic Massachusetts Safety Inspection
>
>Thanks for all of the comments and observations. I certainly agree that it
>is better to find out the faults before killing off a pack of nuns or
school
>children or the like. I looked things over last night and found that ball
>joints and trunions are both a bit sloppy so I ordered the stuff and will
get
>it on tomorrow. It does not look like too big a deal and plan to finish in
>an evening (ever the optimist).
>How good is the hammer advice on ball joint removal? I obviously will have
>no further use for two worn ball joints, so I am not worried about puking
>them. Is there anything else that I might put in harms way as I beat the
>crap out of them?
>Well, thanks again and I'll let you know how it all turns out.
>Steve M
>
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