spitfires
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RE: 1980 Spitfire Gauges

To: triumphs@autox.team.net, spitfires@autox.team.net, amdickin@ucalgary.ca,
Subject: RE: 1980 Spitfire Gauges
From: "Banbury, Terrence" <Terrence.Banbury@dnr.state.oh.us>
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:10:24 -0400
If I understand your problem correctly.....You might try cleaning the
contact points in the old regulator, much like filing down ignition points.
Use fine emery cloth/ sand paper and be careful not to disturb the 'gap'
setting.   FWIW

Terrence Banbury



> ----------
> From:         RTriplett@bjservices.com[SMTP:RTriplett@bjservices.com]
> Reply To:     RTriplett@bjservices.com
> Sent:         Tuesday, April 04, 2000 9:43 AM
> To:   triumphs@autox.team.net; spitfires@autox.team.net;
> amdickin@ucalgary.ca
> Subject:      1980 Spitfire Gauges
> 
> 
> >From: Mark Dickinson <>
> >Does anyone out there know what the operating voltage of the fuel and
> >water temp gauges is?  My 'voltage stabilizer' is functioning well
> >enough to drive the fuel gauge on a full tank to about 3/4+ level on >the
> >gauge so I think it may be on the way out.  Any advice on an LM317
> >voltage regulator substitute?  Also what should a warm temperature
> >sensor read for impedence?  What is the typical range?
> 
> Mark, from what I gathered from trial-and-error, the Spitfire regulator
> system seems to be a sort of electro-mechanical "chopper" device that
> regulates voltage by using thermal bi-metal contacts that open and close
> to
> keep the voltage at a constant level.  The higher the voltage, the more
> current/heat is generated and the faster the contacts open and close.  The
> gauges, being very slow to respond, do not see the switch actions, but do
> see an overall constant voltage.  At least this is how I figured it when I
> was checking my system.  As was stated on another response, you could use
> a
> 10V regulator IC, but I don't know if 10V would give you the right voltage
> for an accurate reading.  Sounds like it would be worth a try if you
> suspect the regulator is shot, since the IC is pretty cheap.  If you buy
> the IC from Radio Shack, they usually have the pin-out configuration on
> the
> package.  Also you will probably want to put a  1mfd by-pass cap on the
> input and one on the output to prevent the IC from breaking into
> oscillation and going into thermal runaway and overheating. Additionally,
> there are lower voltage versions (8V, 5V) if 10V is too high.
> Let us know if that IC works for future reference.
> Regards,
> Richard
> 

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