It sounds like there is a ballast resistor in the circuit feeding
the distributor. Obviously you don't want that in the circuit that feeds
the pump. The ignition switch has a couple of spare terminals that
would probably be a good place to hook up the pump. The optional
overdrive circuit uses them (I am assuming that you don't have an overdrive).
Maybe you would be best off getting a original-style mechanical
fuel pump? I have heard more stories about problems with flaky
aftermarket fuel pumps than flaky mechanical ones... The
one on my '72 has never given me a bit of trouble in 9 years.
Doug Braun
'72 SPit
At 05:18 PM 3/26/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Thanks for the info Joe,
>
>I just took the car out on it's maiden voyage after installing the electric
>fuel pump, and twice it started to cut-out on me (10 miles or so).
>
>I wired the pump off of the ignition going to the coil. With the car
>running, I'm only getting 9 volts off of the line.
>
>I've noticed that the coil receives 12 volts with the distributor return
>wire unattached (dizzy to the neg coil lead) and the ignition on. With the
>dizzy wire attached to the neg coil side and the ignition on (the car still
>not running) I get 6 volts from the hot lead. Finally with the car running,
>I get 9 volts off of the ignition. Does this sound right?
>
>Lasty is there a better place to tap into the ignition?
>
>-Terry (with a bad case of allergy attack) Thompson
>Maryland
>'76 Spitfire w/older points type dizzy.
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