Some random thoughts:
Any movement on the crank, e.g. the dreaded thrust washer drop-out?
Any chance the clutch disc was installed backwards by PO?
Are there any burrs or rust on the clutch disc splines or trans input shaft
that would
cause it to hang up from disengaging?
FYI, I replaced the hinge pin with a bolt about 25,000 miles and it has given
me no trouble. Good luck, I would be interested to hear how it works out for
you.
-Greg
78 and 72 Spits
In a message dated 3/28/99 7:57:13 PM EST, dgates@lava.net writes:
>
> Hi all,
>
> My moderately grinding gears have finally gotten bad enough that I quit
> driving the car. I have pretty much replaced all the hydrolics. Replaced
> the master (new) and the slave (rebuilt), even used a different fluid pipe.
> Hydrolics seem to be in pretty good condition, symptoms improved slightly
> but not fixed. After seeing some recent advise on the list about loose
> spings and sheared pivot pins, I decided to remove the single rail tranny
> to check it out. What could it hurt, I cant drive it anyway. Here is what
> I found.
>
> (Figure numbers below are from Haynes pg 134 fig 5.1. This is actually the
> wrong clutch but the lever mechanisms are all the same)
>
> The release bearing seems to be in good condition. The hub (15) that the
> release bearing (14) is pressed onto however was rubbing on the operating
> lever (22). This tells me that indeed the hydrolics are working fine if it
> can move it that far. I compared this to my spare 3 rail tranny on the
> bench and it would not even move far enough to rub on the operating lever.
> Should it even be ABLE to move that far? I noticed that the retaining
> plugs (16) pivot as the operating lever is moved back and forth. My 3 rail
> does not do that, the plugs remain stationary. Then, I decided to remove
> the whole operating lever assembly and found that the hinge pin (17) was
> not pressed in, it is actually a bolt rather than a pressed in pin, it does
> however fit nice and snug. And lastly, the push rod (25) appears to have
> been modified. The end that contacts the slave cylinder has been threaded
> and an extention was screwed onto it to make its length adjustable, this
> extra length may account for the rubbing.
>
> I could not find any obvious damage other than the stated modifications and
> mild rubbing. Nothing that would seem to cause the problems I have had.
> At least now I know where the rubbing sound is comming from when I push the
> clutch pedal all the way down.
>
> So having said all that, here is my plan. Order a new 3 piece clutch kit,
> it is in fair condition but since I have it out I might as well renew it.
> Replace the modified push rod with a standard one. Get a real hinge pin to
> replace the bolt. Replace the retaining plugs and the pin that hold it in.
> I realize that this is sort of a shotgun approach to this, but I really
> dont want to have to remove the tranny again if I can help it. Can anyone
> offer anything else to look for while I have it all apart? I would REALLY
> hate to replace all this stuff and find that I still have a problem.
>
> The car is a '73 Spitfire 1500, but the engine and tranny are out of a '78.
> Sorry for being so long winded.
>
> David Gates
> With a herd of Spitfires and all of them stuck in the barn.
>
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