I just had the same problem with the clutch master cylinder. I ended up
putting in a bolt and nut with a washer on each side and tightening down,
but not too snugly. On the first push, it moves forward and stays there
on return, eliminating the slack associated with the ovality The hydraulic
system automatically adjusts for the piston being slightly further out.
The washers and the thoughtful automatic lubrication provided by the
hydraulic fluid that inevitably weeps to some degree, allow for the small
amount of pivoting needed at the bolt as long as you didn't overtighten.
Cheap and easy - does it get better than that?!?
-Greg
78 Spit - daily driver
72 Spit - floor? We don't need no stinkin' floor
In a message dated 2/15/99 11:56:38 AM EST, karl.j.theis@lmco.com writes:
> I haven't posted to the list in quite a while, but here it goes....
> I am slowly rebuilding a MKI GT6. Right now I'm cleaning and reinstalling
> the brake and clutch pedal assemblies. Here's my problem - the hole in
> the brake pedal lever arm, the one that the clevis pin fits into to attach
> the brake M/C pushrod, is worn oval. I figure I can do one of three
things:
> I can use a welder to completely fill the hole, then grind the fill flat
> and redrill. Or I can drill the hole larger and braze in a 5/16" i.d.
> bronze bushing. I found a shouldered bushing that will work nicely, but my
> concern is that I'll need to drill out a significant amount of metal from
> the pedal arm to make it fit, leaving only about 1/8" of material around
> the outer edge of the pedal arm. Is this enough? And how well will the
> braze hold? The last option is to just find a new (used) pedal. Has
> anyone out there solved this problem before? Any
> solutions/anecdotes/comments will be appreciated.
> Thanks
> Karl
> '67, '68 GT6's
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