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Engin overhaul things

To: Spit Fires <spitfires@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Engin overhaul things
From: James <james.carpenter@ukaea.org.uk>
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 10:25:28 +0000
You may well know that I have me 1300 engin in at the moment bacause the
1500 is sick.  The 1300 has the 1500 cylinderhead on and it's SU's and
needels, so it's not running that well.  

I have descided to bring my 1500 engin back to life, unfortunatly tying
the engin to a flying kite in a thunderstorm did'nt do any good so I
might have to do some work.  

I have started stripping down the engin, and found out why I was getting
blow by.  The side of one piston has melted, and cracked bending the
piston rings.  This has made a hole with the area of 1cm sq.  I wan't to
know how did the DPO cover this up when I got the car.  

Anyway it's a doly 1500 engin, according to all the specs this readlines
at 5000 RPM as oposed to 5500 RPM.   What are the internal differences,
I suspect the Spitifire pistons and conrods are ether stronger or
lighter.  Can anyone say yay or nay?  I know the major one will be the
breathing 1 as oposed to 2 SU's makes a difference.  I saw a test in the
TSSC which said Twin SUS 51BHP at 5200 RPM on the wheels, Single SU
42BHP at 4800 RPM at the wheels.  

What advantage dose matching the weights have i.e. putting conrod with
piston untill you have the weights almost the same.  Or should I take a
bit of metal off with me angle grinder untill the conrods weigh the
same.

Should I go for a crank re-grind.  The big-end bits seem fine, but the
main bearing bits have two groves.  

Anyone tryed converting the timing chain to a timing belt ala TSSC
artical.   

-- 
James Carpenter
Yellow '79 spit wired by a trained marmot

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