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If you have fairly unobstructed access to the underside, you can use a
Skill saw or router to cut some grooves 1/2 to 3/4 of the thickness of the
table's top (especially in areas of the most warpage) and then add some
cleats across the underside to pull the warpage of it.
I wouldn't do this to a valuable antique but it is more likely to be
successful than trying to rehydrate/dehydrate warped wood.
EjR
On Tue, Jul 25, 2023 at 7:56=E2=80=AFPM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.or=
g> wrote:
> I foolishly picked up a "free" 1930s dining table. It has a stunning
> veneered top and nice fluted double legs with intricate designs on the
> skirt.
>
> It was free because the PO stored it in his basement and the top warped
> pretty good, the sides cupping upwards as moisture entered the underside.
>
> I stripped the shellac off the top and laid it face down on the lawn to
> try and introduce moisture to the top while the sun baked the underside
> under weight, but it didn't move. I was able to remove the loosened
> underside veneer (maybe I should have done this before I put it in the
> sun?) but a few hours of hot steam and clamps wasn't enough to budge
> things. I don't want to remove the top veneer since I'd prefer a warped t=
op
> to destroyed veneer.
>
> It seems I have 2 choices - soak the underside long enough for the entire
> 1/2" thick solid wood top to get wet and then clamp and dry it, and risk
> loosening the veneer, or build an environment where the humidity is very
> low and let the underside dry out well below ambient humidity, pulling th=
e
> top straight. I'm in MA and it's a very damp summer.
>
> Any thoughts on which is better, and if the latter, how to create this
> artifical desert?
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:large">If =
you have fairly unobstructed access to the underside, you can use a Skill s=
aw or router to cut some grooves 1/2 to 3/4 of the thickness of the table&#=
39;s top (especially in areas of the most warpage) and then add some cleats=
across the underside to pull the warpage of it.=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"font-size:large"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"font-size:large">I wouldn't do this to a valuable antique =
but it is more likely to be successful than trying to rehydrate/dehydrate w=
arped wood.=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:larg=
e"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:large">EjR=C2=
=A0</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gma=
il_attr">On Tue, Jul 25, 2023 at 7:56=E2=80=AFPM Jim Franklin <<a href=
=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org";>jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>> wrote:<br=
></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;=
border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">I foolishly picked=
up a "free" 1930s dining table. It has a stunning veneered top a=
nd nice fluted double legs with intricate designs on the skirt.<br>
<br>
It was free because the PO stored it in his basement and the top warped pre=
tty good, the sides cupping upwards as moisture entered the underside.<br>
<br>
I stripped the shellac off the top and laid it face down on the lawn to try=
and introduce moisture to the top while the sun baked the underside under =
weight, but it didn't move. I was able to remove the loosened underside=
veneer (maybe I should have done this before I put it in the sun?) but a f=
ew hours of hot steam and clamps wasn't enough to budge things. I don&#=
39;t want to remove the top veneer since I'd prefer a warped top to des=
troyed veneer. <br>
<br>
It seems I have 2 choices - soak the underside long enough for the entire 1=
/2" thick solid wood top to get wet and then clamp and dry it, and ris=
k loosening the veneer, or build an environment where the humidity is very =
low and let the underside dry out well below ambient humidity, pulling the =
top straight. I'm in MA and it's a very damp summer.<br>
<br>
Any thoughts on which is better, and if the latter, how to create this arti=
fical desert?<br>
<br>
thanks,<br>
jim<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk"; rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/ejrussell61@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
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