Howdy,
As to "why?" I'm guessing its "don't have to drill as much". Going
through a corner of a bolt head seems like it'd be a heck of a lot
less material to remove.
As for how to actually drill it... I would think it'd be pretty
sensitive to what drills you were using and what feed rates. Seems
like since you're catching the corner on an angle, it would be pretty
easy to overfeed it, causing the drill to take too much of a bite and
snap. Is that what's happening, or is it something else? Might have
a similar problem coming out, but the bit should be even better
supported there.
All that said... I've always done like someone else posted and drilled
straight through, flat to flat. And I've broken off my share of bits
doing it, particularly when I've done it using a hand drill.
Mark
On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 9:12 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm
> wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of the
> bolt head for torquing?).
> Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so
> easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide and
> with such a small bit.
>
>> From: TR3driver@ca.rr.com
>> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
>>
>> > Not sure if there's any secret here. I've drilled a dozen
>> > 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single
>> > cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked
>> > to -
>>
>> But did you start on the corner of the bolt head? That's what the
> linked-to
>> tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to
>> hold the drill on-center to the corner. Seems to me that even a cobalt bit
>> is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless you
>> grind a small flat for the bit to start into.
>>
>> -- Randall
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