Dear Scott,
I think the best thing to do now would be to go to HD and buy a 3/4" full
ball-valve and a hose bib fitting (I can take a photo of what I did). Turn
off the cold water feed to the heater, replace the current drain valve with
the ball-valve, close the new drain valve, open the cold water feed to
pressurize the tank, and then open and close your new drain valve in five
second intervals until the water discharge is clear.The ball valve and
fittings cost about $11 at the local home depot.
I have found that if do this about once a week for several weeks, you will
continue to get sludge out that has loosened up from the heating cycles.
For the anode valve, it will be on the top of the tank probably behind/near
the cold water inlet. They all are hex head, 1 1/16" nuts. I used my air
impact wrench to remove it as it was a tight fit. It might be located under
some tape and insulation.
Most rods are 44" long and when new are 3/4" diameter and are made from
magnesium. Magnesium generally is best (most protective), but if you are
getting a strong sulfur smell from the faucet, you might want to look at an
aluminum rod. They cost $20-$40 and will last 3-5 years. There is a good
chance that your anode will just be a piece of wire with all the magnesium
consumed.
If your tank is in a basement or someplace with a good deal of head room,
you can buy a solid rod. If it is in a shed, you will need to get a flexible
one so that you can feed it in.
The basic take is that if you change the anode every 3-5 years, flush the
tank out a couple times a year, the heater should last for 20+ years.
Water softeners will consume the rods sooner. This is where I ordered my
rod:
http://shop.waterconnection.com/category.sc?categoryId=2
The owner answers the phone and is very helpful and willing to answer
questions.
If I forgot anything, please let me know.
best,
doug
----- Original Message -----
From: <scott.hall@comcast.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 3:31 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] well that can't be good...
> so I read doug shook's post about water heater maintenance and that got me
> thinking I haven't drained the heater recently, and maybe a new anode
> couldn't hurt, either.
>
> so I hook up the hose, open the valve, and...nothing. take off the hose,
> open the valve. still nothing. a dribble.
>
> I guess it's been so long that sediment appears to have completely clogged
> up the drain valve.
>
> the question is: what do I do now? I just closed the valve, just in case,
> but it seems to me that this is probably not a Good Thing.
>
> any ideas?
>
> and while I'm asking, how exactly does one replace the anode? are they all
> in the same place? there's no decal with an arrow that says, "anode here".
>
> thanks.
>
> scott
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as dirtbeard@pacbell.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Shop-talk mailing list
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
http://www.team.net/archive
|