Hi Steve,
I will not do a lot of welding.
For the most part, I expect I would buy a MIG, but I have some projects
in mind that would/could require thicker material: Engine hoist, shop
press, 3500# trailer for my TR250 and MGBs, 6' snow blade frame for my
tractor, and general home repair items.
I also plan to replace the sills on my MGB as well as the rear fenders.
Clearly this is MIG/TIG. Sounds like TIG is the best and I already knew
that, but the $$$ is the problem there.
Again, I would simply get a low end MIG if it were not for the need to
do
thicker material.
I see welding as a way to join two pieces of steel. A way to build a
utility trailer. It's not an art form to me -- at least not yet. I make
walnut and cherry furnature in my woodworking shop as an art form.
So the question is: buy a big MIG to cover the thicker material problem,
or buy a low end MIG and something else. Looks like the AC-225 is out of
the question because I only have 40 amps in the garage and it needs 50.
So it's a big MIG -- maybe 175, or something smaller and gas.
Speed is of no concern. So maybe I can do thicker material in
multiple passes with the MIG? Maybe get a MIG 135 and accept multiple
passes for the thicker material? Is that what we are really talking
about -- multiple vs single pass and speed -- pretty welds vs ugly ones?
No butt joints for the thick material -- only overlap. Can I do 1/4" or
5/16" material with a MIG 135. Strong and ugly is OK.
What about gas and brazing? I'm reading that a 1" brazed overlapped
joint
can support the weight of an entire car. Is a MIG 135 and thick material
sort of like brazing -- only overlap joints and multiple passes -- no
butt joints?
I just can't spend $1000.00 for something I'm going to use twice a year.
Maybe once I have it I'll use it a lot.
The Lincoln MIG Pro says 5/16" but I don't believe them. Miller and
Hobart 135 says 3/16". Something doesn't sound right to me.
Don Malling
Steven Trovato wrote:
>
> Don,
>
> There has been a lot of great advice sent your way so far. Seems like
> there are two camps. The "save your money and buy a MIG" camp and the
> "your better off starting with gas" camp. I think the question here is
> what your goals are. Are you prepared to invest a lot of time in becoming
> a skilled welder? I have seen skilled welders do amazing things with
> gas. Watching a pro lay down a bead with a gas torch and then hammer it
> flat is an experience. Watching an amateur try to do it is a different
> experience completely. Frustration and a lot of warped sheet metal are
> usually involved. I think the thing that really boosted the popularity of
> MIG when it became affordable is that you can do decent work with
> relatively little practice and skill. If your main goal is to get a car
> restored, I would say save your pennies and buy the MIG. Also, I don't
> know what sort of car you're working on, but car clubs can be a tremendous
> resource. If you get to know some people, you'll find some who have some
> welding equipment. They will probably show you the ropes, let you try out
> some different equipment. If they think you are a nice guy, they might
> even let you borrow some. :-)
>
> -Steve
>
> At 05:17 PM 5/11/03 -0400, Don Malling wrote:
>
> >Hi Steve,
> >
> >It is both sheet metal and frames. That is the problem. Frames to start,
> >sheet metal later.
> >
> >Someone else suggested to start with gas. Welding classes are not
> >available in my area.
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