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Followup to: Best way to remove broken bolts

To: British-Cars-Pre-War@autox.team.net, shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Followup to: Best way to remove broken bolts
From: Mike Rambour <mikey@b2systems.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 12:56:55 -0800
   Wow, did I get some great responses on this question.  THANKS TO ALL who 
responded and there were a lot of you.

   On the one stud that was sticking out about 1/4" I followed the 
suggestion of welding a nut onto it and sure enough it came loose.

   For the one broken below the surface I turned a small bushing on the 
lathe that fit into the hole and drilled a small hole in that busing while 
still on the lathe to be sure it was dead center and used it as a guide and 
drilled the broken stud, I then used the next size up drill bit (LEFT 
HANDED BIT) and the stud came out as I was drilling the larger hole...

   For the other ones that were more or less flush with the block, I welded 
some locating pins on a piece of 1/8" thick flat steel, I then drilled 2 
holes in another piece of steel to match the locating pins and put that 
piece on top and drilled a small hole through both pieces of steel.  I then 
drilled the same size as the stud hole on the bottom piece of steel and 
clamped it up against the block.  With the hole the same size as the stud I 
could center it pretty darn good, put the second piece up (that is why the 
locating pins) and drilled through it using the small hole that I knew was 
dead center to the bigger hole, I was able to see the stud as I positioned 
the metal with the large hole well enough that I was close enough to center 
to not damage the threads on 3 of the 4 studs.  On the last stud I think 
the hole in my guide was getting worn and/or I didn't get centered close 
enough so I did damage the threads a little.

  Overall, I think I will be ok, I will use something like JB Weld in the 2 
holes that had wood screws in them and this last hole, all 3 damaged holes 
have some thread left and I think the JB Weld will fill in the damaged part 
quite well and I won't torque those down too tight.

  THANK YOU for the responses, I would have never thought of making the 
bushing or welding a nut on, I was surprised at how easy the thing came out 
after i welded the nut on...awesome idea.

   Todays project is get the pan on and put the carbs back on, fuel tank 
comes back from being cleaned up and repaired on Wednesday, that gives me 
time to make new fuel lines from the tank to the carbs and then its on to 
the brakes but i might try running it first just to hear it :)  If all goes 
well another pre-war Singer will be on the road this weekend for a few 
months.  I have been told not to trust 70year old white metal too much, 
especially since the motor has not run since 1968 so I will pull the motor 
and go through it properly soon.  Oh yeah, have to rewire it too, rats 
enjoyed the wiring over the years.

        mike

~~~~~ I'd rather be sailing and  ~~~ .oooO  Oooo.  ~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Rambour                                   (    )  (     )    
Bug Writer er...Programmer                \   )   (   / 
      mikey@b2systems.com                  \_)  (_/  
**********************************************************************
If you want to learn more about the ULTIMATE BRITISH sports car,
then take a look at   http://www.singercars.com/
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