Adjust to 0 lash , TDC on each cylinder and it should start. Let it
run long enough to get the engine up to normal operation temp and then
readjust with the engine running, valve covers off , and oil clips on
the rockers. Loosen until you hear each valve ticking and tighten 1 to
1.5 turns and you will be in business.
Bill
Bruce Wolfe (wolfe) wrote:
>I need to tap the collective wisdom here. I've never had to set the
>valves on a car (1994 Camaro, 3.4L V6) with hydraulic lifters. Here's
>the scenario:
>
>I had a leaking head gasket, so tore the motor down to the block, shaved
>heads, new exhaust valves, valve job, etc. Built it back up using a
>Chilton's repair manual. It said to adjust the valves to zero lash
>(compression stroke) then ADD 1.5 turns to preload the lifter. Did that,
>finished the assembly, cranked her over - NOTHING. The engine just spins
>easily. Like no compression. So I test two cylinders and sure enough, no
>compression. I remembered good compression while rotating the engine to
>adjust the valves in the first place. Hmmmm.
>
>So I tear back down to the valves and do a pseudo leak-down test. I can
>easily blow into each cylinder. Back off the valves (when the cylinder
>is at TDC) and I can hear the cylinder seal back up. Add as little as
>1/8th of a turn on the valve and it opens back up, air flows easily!
>
>The car is acting more like it has solid lifters than hydraulic
>(possible, it is pre-owned, but not likely). Could the springs on every
>lifter be broken an the lifters all collapsed?? I'd prefer NOT to take
>the intake manifold off, but if I have to to check the lifters, I will.
>
>Suggestion? I'm stumped. But then, I've never had a car with hydraulic
>lifters before.
>
>Replies off-line gratefully appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bruce Wolfe
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