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Re: Lathe question forwarded

To: <>, "shop-talk" <>
Subject: Re: Lathe question forwarded
From: "Rex Burkheimer" <>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 10:26:53 -0500
So how do you zero a machinists level?

BTW, whoever posted that link to the lathe leveling instructions - thanks!
What a great site for an amateur machinist.

Rex Burkheimer
Marketing Director, WM Automotive Warehouse
Fort Worth TX

 Great minds discuss ideas;
 Average minds discuss events;
 Small minds discuss people.

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>; <>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Lathe question forwarded

> In a message dated 9/25/00 11:01:59 PM Central Daylight Time,
> writes:
> > The only reason that I can think of to level a lathe is so a person
> >  cut a taper with a protractor instead of a calculator.
> >
> >  Can anyone think of any other reasons?
> Some offset turning setups with a four jaw independent chuck can be made
> a level  on the workpiece for reference.  If the machine is not level, the
> setup will not be correct.  Watched this done a few times thirty years
> Do not remember what the exact application was.  Probably to rebuild
> pump parts.  I remember him using the level much more on the milling
> he made than the lathe setups.  Probably not very useful trick for 99.98
> percent of us.  I have used the Machinist's Level to set up my larger
> just because they were always set up like that in the shops I worked in
> The setup was done with a Starrett Machinist's Level AFTER it was
> adjusted before each use.  You have to learn how to adjust or zero them to
> true level or they are no better than a carpenter's level.  Did not make a
> lot of sense to me to adjust before every use, but you will definitely
> to adjust before the first use to get it right. Used to be lots of them in
> Antique stores around my area of the country (Texas/Oklahoma).  Look for
> that has a clean, straight, rustfree base, clear vial,  and still in the
> case.  If you are going to actually use it, it might be better to try to
> one you can see, try, etc. before you buy.  I bought mine ten years ago
> twenty dollars in the original wooden case.  Base is perfect, lots of
> and scratches in the paint, box is oil stained, adjusted out fine on the
> first try and stays in adjustment for several months.  Ugly, but works
> Of course, IMHO for all the level work to be any good, the lathe has to be
> a stout stand bolted firmly to a strong floor and then grouted in.
> Otherwise, you spend all that time and money and bump it out of level the
> first time you use it.
> Alex H.
> Tulsa, OK

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