At 08:51 14/01/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>
>I want to add a utility sink to my garage; the wife gets cranky when I get
>greasy stains on the doors as I try to make my way to the bathroom sink.
>I've located the water lines to the bathroom sink, and conveniently enough,
>can pop through the wall on the other side to hook up the utility sink.
>The problem is that the only soldering I've ever done is electrical....
>
>If I understand the procedure right, I need to take some fine sandpaper or
>steel wool to clean up both the copper fitting and pipe first. Then brush
>a light coat of flux onto both. Fit the pipe and fitting together. Heat
>with a propane torch until I can get the solder to wick into the joint. Let
>cool and then clean with a wet rag. Does this sound correct? Is there a way
>for me to pressure test the joint other than just opening the water supply?
>And finally, (although I guess this is pretty important), how do I slip in
>the tee fittings? Is is simply cutting out a small section of the existing
>tubing and bending both ends enough to slip in the fitting, or is there a
>more elegant solution?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike
>
Mike,
A few thoughts from UK, hope they're relevant but as a rule what we can get
you get in spades!
Have you considered using compression fittings rather than soldered? If
you're breaking into a live system they're quicker and more amateur
friendly, just a spanner job with no heat to worry about, some are even a
pushfit. Another advantage is that you can fix a weep by tightening a bit
more. There are solder joints with a ring of solder built into the joint,
this makes for a simpler job, especially when your new pipe is above the
joint. They do away with the need for feeding solder into the joint.
The important thing with solder joints is cleanliness. Cut the pipe with a
pipe cutter then clean the part going into the joint with wire wool - avoid
anything too aggressive because you're just making channels that have to be
filled with solder. Dip the cleaned end in flux paste and you should be on
your way.
When breaking into the existing pipe you have to look for the longest
available length to give most deflection. If you can find a length with an
elbow you're in luck.
It's worthwhile doing a dry run with a few lengths of pipe to get an idea of
how much of a gap the tee occupies before you break into the existing pipe,
otherwise you can guarantee that you cut out too much. Ask me how I know!
Hope this helps, I am not remotely a plumber but these methods have helped
fit up washing machines and radiators without too many disasters.
Nick Brearley
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