I've had some responses to my reply to BagpiperEd's post about door
locks. Ed titled his post "Power Door Locks" but in his response to me
it appears he wants to use a solenoid to release the latch, not lock
the door. Bob Kremer reports that he has used the AutoLoc solenoids,
but again it appears that Bob is releasing the latch rather than
locking the door. Bob says, "The challenge is to devise a way to
secure the end of the cable shield to avoid travel when actuating the
operator." Bob, how about sharing your solution for interested
listers? I'm guessing that Ed and Bob have shaved their door handles,
which automatically solves the locking problem, and need only to
activate the latches to open the doors. But I could be reading their
responses wrong.
For clarification: As described by AutoLoc and other vendors,
solenoids are devices which pull only, and their force is transferred
by a cable stretched between the solenoid and the mechanism to be
activated. They are typically used to release latches, such as door
latches or trunk latches. Actuators are two-way devices. Their force
is transferred by rods or bars which can push and pull, as for
instance on a lock button.
I'm keeping stock door handles and latch mechanisms, and my need is
for a system to lock and unlock with a keyfob from outside and
switches from inside. All of the aftermarket power lock systems I've
seen are designed to operate existing lock buttons which are
independent from the door handles, which of course we don't have.
Jim Hayes wonders if something could be rigged to prevent the
pushbutton in the outer handle from being depressed. I considered that
at some length, but there's not much room to work there. The window
channel runs inside the angle of the latch mechanism, and there is
only about 1/2" space in either direction. I'm a machinist and a
pretty good mechanic, and my take on it is that it would be a real
challenge to devise a mechanism that can be easily fitted to the stock
latch, strong enough to resist a sharp whack on the lock button and
that can be controlled by a door lock actuator while still fitting in
the available space. It's possible, certainly, and I could do it, but
it would take more time and effort than it's worth. (And I say this as
a guy who just spent about 4 hours building power window switches that
are operated by the original window cranks.)
That's why I'm working on an auxiliary lock independent from the stock
latch. But I'm still open to ideas, as I haven't drilled any holes in
my doors yet.
Joe
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Heather & Joe Way
Sierra Specialty Automotive
Brake cylinders sleeved with brass
Gus Wilson Stories
http://www.brakecylinder.com
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