Hi Gary, Welcome
When I first purchased our 49 3100 (1/2ton) it came with a 283 bolted to
the original bell housing attached to the original
4-speed tranny. The previous owner used the common after market tube
saddle for side mounts on the engine and of
course the rear (trans) was stock mounted to the cross member but not
the bell housing. Originally the six was single
mounted up front and double on the bell sides, this just swaps ends but
it is still tri mounted. He cobbled up some clutch
linkage, which was one of the first things I re-did after purchase, to
make it work smoother. He moved the steering box
to the left very slightly with 1/4" angle iron to solve the exhaust
clearance problem. I understand if you're diligent manifolds
can be found which will work without moving the steering box ???? No
personal knowledge.
Our truck had the original radiator in it , which I drove for several
years until a small crack appeared in the neck where it
was soldered to the tank. I have a 2 ton 53 with a spare radiator which
I checked for leaks (none) so I bolted it in in place
of the original. The bigger trucks came with approx 1/3 thicker cores so
if you can find one, have it checked and cleaned
out of course, and it will give you significant better cooling capacity.
The brakes on these old trucks leave something to be desired, and a
upgrade here is in your best interest, especially with
a trailer with or without brakes behind you truck. Upgrade to slightly
wider steel original style wheels with radial tires also
for a big improvement in ride and handling.
True, the 6 volt starter will work. It has much larger wire windings
since it only had half the voltage.
I still have the vacuum wiper in our truck which , until recently this
year anyway, didn't get much use here in Socal. Whenever
it rains I think about replacing with electric, then the sun comes out
and the priority goes down :)
The guy I purchased from pulled a 28' travel trailer from Oakland to San
Diego back in the 80's!
I have a link to an article from a magazine on my web site "V8 your AD"
on the left margin which, although using
a auto trans shows the front mount and steering mod etc. to give you an
idea how it was done in this particular case.
This swap has been done probably thousands of times and many different
ways, so there is no single "how to."
Good luck with the project.
Gary Gittleson wrote:
>Anyhow, my plan is to swap in a 350 and use it as a real truck. It would get 2
>or 3000 miles per year but some of it would be pulling a 2-horse trailer. Feel
>free to tell me I'm crazy.
>
>I want to change as little as possible, with nothing noticeable without
>opening the hood. No lowered front end. No car front end. No automatic. No
>tilt. No fancy dash. I will change to 12 volt and convert to electric wipers.
>Maybe it will need a beefed-up radiator. I suppose I will have to change the
>rear end ratio. Carter's has a 4.10 for the 3/4 ton. I would need the front
>motor mount, which I would get from Chevy Duty. They said I would need the
>rear as well but I don't see why, since I'm not going to automatic (no way!).
>It all seems almost too easy. I read that I can use the same starter,
>flywheel, clutch etc. I know, the starter is 6 volt but I don't think that
>will matter. It just makes them spin faster. I have another 52 with 235, 12
>volt and a 6 volt starter. Same in my Ford 9N tractor. No problem.
>
>
>
>
>
--
Nothin lasts forever cept ol Fords and natural stone -Willie Nelson
http://Bobsplayce.home.att.net
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|