Most fittings no matter the material will hold up well with vibration as long
as there is no stress put on them. Ensure lines going to fittings have a
natural bend going into it. The line should want to stay right where it will be
connected when not yet connected. When tightening/loosening fittings, Always
use a back-up wrench on the t-/elbow/what-ever kind of fitting the line is
connected to. My two cent tip for the day.
Steve
51 3100
St Peters, MO
Bob KNOTTS <raknotts@qwest.net> wrote:
You want to be careful abt those "tees". I put one on a six cylinder car
once, so I could have both the factory "idiot light", and a gauge, and
within 6 months the tee had cracked due to vibration, leaking oil and
lowering my oil pressure, . Bob K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hanlon, Bill (ISS Houston)"
To: ; ;
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 8:26 AM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] off topic diagnostics/suggestions request
> If you do have to remove the distributor to deal with the sending unit AND
if the sending unit has standard pipe thread on it AND if there is enough
space do yourself a favor and put in a T fitting and the screw the new
sending unit into it while capping off the other side of the T. Two
reasons.
> 1. Next time you wont have to take out the distributor.
> 2. You could uncap the other side of the T and screw
> in a mechanical gauge to check the pressure.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mark@noakes.com [mailto:mark@noakes.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 8:04 AM
> To: napco4x4@yahoogroups.com; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [oletrucks] off topic diagnostics/suggestions request
>
>
> This week the oil pressure gage on my 86 chevy pickup w/305 V8 suddenly
started reading
> real low. The peculiar thing was that it had a high frequency oscillation
on the
> needle...not just low...that makes me suspicious that it may be on the
sensor side
> instead of real pressure side. This happened on my wife's Jeep and it did
actually turn
> out to be the sending unit.
>
> The oil level was full. Hmmm...
>
> * gas in oil from a carb problem thinning it out?
>
> * bad oil pressure sending unit, wire, or gage? (It does also have an oil
pressure
> light and that has not come on.)
>
> * bad oil pump?
>
> * engine just too loose? Gee, I don't know how it could be that; after
all it only has
> 231Kmiles on it.
>
> It was due for an oil change anyway so I changed that out and used 20W-50
since it is an
> older looser engine...and bought an oil pressure sending unit while I was
at it.
> Changing oil raised the gage value some but not alot..and maybe that was
just wishful
> thinking. I have not yet changed out the oil pressure sending unit
because it is
> located behind the distributer and it looks like the distrib has to come
out to make
> that swap...gee thanks, GM. I've timed distributers before but would
rather not have to
> go thru that process for something this minor.
>
> Any suggestions as to statistically what this problem may be? Am I only
dreaming to
> hope that it is just the sending unit?
>
> If I have to do the oil pump, there are so many other things that I should
also to do
> when I get in there that this could turn into a major project...something
I don't have
> time for right now.
>
> Any suggestions about getting to the oil pressure sending unit w/o taking
the distrib
> out? I can't see how to reach it otherwise.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Noakes
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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