Bill, on saw, cut only the metal, not the welds. The welds are harder. They
even cut harder with a torch. Then when metal is out of way, you can grind
with 4-1/2" angle grinder. You have one of those right??? :-) I would have
chosen a torch to whack it off. Then ground smoother after main parts were
gone. I like bolting hitches on, that way you can remove if needed or
wanting to save for next truck. I don't think bolting is any Weaker if you
use good strong bolts and heavy washers on frame rail side.
G.L. Perry
-------Original Message-------
From: William Schickling
Date: Sunday, October 05, 2003 2:33:47 PM
To: Oletrucks
Subject: [oletrucks] Cutting metal
Group,
First I want to thank everyone on the responses to my first inquiry about
breaking welds. I am making head way with removing the old hitch. The advice
to stay away from tearing through the frame when ripping the old welds out
was very good. I thought I had most of a weld cut through so I whacked it
with a hammer and it broke off put took a little of the base frame metal
with it. I imagine if it were bigger it might have ripped a hole in the
frame. Getting tough with a big hammer would only gets me repair bills.
Since I haven't located a welder that is willing to come to my house, I am
using a combination of angle grinder and a air cut off tool. However you get
stuck where these tools won't reach. I grabbed my trusty reciprocating saw
to try to saw through the welds. These welds are eating metal blades like
crazy. If I put any kind of pressure on the saw the teeth disappear so fast
it makes your head spin. I bought what I thought was the best blade my
hardware store had. There must be something better. Is there a metal,
bi-metal blade or something made for cutting thicker metals? There are some
bigger hardware/home repair stores near work, so I could look tomorrow.
Thanks,
Bill Schickling
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
.
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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