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Re: [oletrucks] TF Rear Drum Removal

To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] TF Rear Drum Removal
From: Bruce Kettunen <bekett@uslink.net>
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 22:02:34 -0500
Thanks for the replies.

1. The truck is a driver, the wheel is free, and the brakes do work 
but need adjusting.  Part of the reason I am doing this is to get 
the adjuster to work.  Part is because I've never been into the brakes 
in the three years I've owned the truck.

2.  I don't think the problem is the shoes dragging on a ridge on 
the drum.  The drum seems free all around the edge.  I can actually 
see the drum flex around the studs when I pry on the rim.  I've had 
the ridge before and this doesn't look the same.  The ridge left 
everything dead with little or no movement at the rim and free movement 
at the hub.  I will try however to pull the adjuster in.

3.  I'm going to try the puller overnight thing along with cleaning 
the joint.  I've been using a 25 year old can of John Crane Deep 
Penetrating Oil.  We used this stuff at the mine and I bought a case 
back then from the vendor.  Best stuff I've ever seen, puts Kroil 
to shame though it is probably illegal to make or use it now because 
of hazardous waste or something.

I have plenty of time and the truck is drivable now.  I agree that 
heat wasn't the best thing, but I didn't go overboard with it.  I 
was mainly concerned that there was some fastener I was missing or 
something.

BTW, I made a tool from 1/8" x 12" steel pipe to install the brake 
tension springs.  Half the pipe is ground away at the end for about 
1/2".  Hook the spring over the pipe, hook the ground end of the 
pipe over the spring stvd, pull the pipe, push the spring end, and 
the spring pops right on.

Thanks for the help.

Bruce K
57 3200
Mt. Iron, MN




At Sunday, 25 May 2003, you wrote:

>Bruce, don't you just love all those "won't take too long" jobs! 
If you
>have a puller to fit drum that's great! First take a knife or box 
knife or
>anything sharp and cut the line around the drum and axle joint. 
Wire brush,
>blow away dust, cut or scrape more, wire brush and so on. You can 
sometimes
>cut out quite a lot of rust and junk there. You need to clean the 
axle part
>good too out farther to allow drum to slide off once it's loose.
You may
>only get it to crack the joint at first, then come loose and wiggle 
and etc.
>Get some PB Blaster penetrant or Kroil is good, but can't buy it 
in stores.
>WD40 isn't good enough here. Spray it up good and put your puller 
on and
>just start to get good tension on it. Take a bigger hammer, like 
a 2 to 4lb.
>one and wrap on the outside corner of drum. Tap it all sides. Don't 
have to
>wrap too hard with big hammer, it just gives better dead wiehgt 
than smaller
>ones. Let it soak overnight with tension and oil on it. Go out tommorrow 
and
>it should pop right off I bet. Don't cut the drum, might be hard 
to find
>one, specially on Holiday. Heat may mess up seal too. Keep cutting 
at and
>scraping that joint with a sharp blade and oil, it should come. 
Just to make
>sure, did the brakes work? If so, won't be shoes rusted on the drum 
tight
>like one that's been setting forever.
>
>G. L. Perry
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bruce Kettunen" <bekett@uslink.net>
>To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 7:09 PM
>Subject: [oletrucks] TF Rear Drum Removal
>
>> This weekend is the one I'm using to try to go through the brakes
>> on my 57 3200 with stock rear axle.  Passenger side rear went great.
>> Took the tire off and the drum practically fell off.
>>
>> The driver's side rear has been another story.  I can pry the drum
>> a little and can see it flex  and move at the studs but can't break
>> it loose at the hub.  Tried penetrating oil.  Tried heat.  Tried
>> tapping it with a ball peen hammer.  Tried heat+prying+tapping.
>> Didn't work.  I can get a puller to pull on the rim of the drum but
>> I'm afraid I'll break off the center of the drum if I pull too hard.
>>
>>
>> There are no apparent rivets or screws holding the drum on, though
>> there are 5 extra 3/8" holes in the drum that are blanked off by
>> the hub flange.
>>
>> Am I missing something here?  Is there something that should come
>> loose first to get the thing off?  How much can I reef on it before
>> I break it?
>>
>> Torch off the center and get a new drum?
>>
>> Looking for advice from someone who has been there before.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Bruce K
>> 57 3200
>> Mt. Iron, MN
>>
>>
>>
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