Sounds as though you may have a ring gear that is worn or deteriorated.
Generally the ring gear will engage in the same area and that wears the
teeth down causing the starter not to engage over the years.
Often another problem may be tooth reduction due to rusting. If the truck
sat for a long time and had a lot of dirt and debris in the bottom of the
housing, it causes the teeth in that area to deteriorate in height and not
allow the starter to engage when it comes to starting at that point.
(result...nashing and whrring)
Another problem is that the starter pedal assembly may have a broken weld
that does not allow the starter to be thrust far enough to engage fully.
Result is more nashing of teeth or a whrrring starter that does not engage.
I had all of the above! :)
Solution options are to have the ring gear replaced or rotated 90 degrees.
A machine shop will be glad to assist. Because I have a 3/4 ton AD, I had
to go the machine route. I found a good 1/2 Ton Flywheel for $40, salvaged
the ring gear and had my flywheel refaced, bead blasted and the ring gear
replaced for $80. So total cost was about $120. Cost to only rotate the
ring gear was about $40.
If your fly wheel has unacceptable scarring and wear, re facing will make
operation later much better.
Cost for remachining is quite high and BEST option may be to get your hands
on a used flywheel with a healthy "correct" ring gear, (assure you count
teeth and note flywheel/clutch face size) That solution depends on you
finding one. I have a 3/4 ton and my options were limited.
Good Luch and Good hunting!
Gary Radicic
1950 Chev 3600
Geneseo, IL
>From: Edward Miller <edngael@open.org>
>Reply-To: Edward Miller <edngael@open.org>
>To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] starter - flywheel problems
>Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 20:19:12 -0700
>
>Hi Steve,
>
>Dunno about the filing the teeth, but you could probably get the fly
>wheel off by removing the tranny and clutch (if you have a manual
>tranny, don't think you said).
>
>Is the starter in far enough? I've never had to deal with it, but some
>starters on some vehicles need shims and stuff to make sure the starter
>gear extends the right distance into the bell housing to engage the fly
>wheel teeth correctly. Sorry, I don't know how to check that, but it's
>something else to think about.
>
>Good luck,
>Ed Miller
>'58 Apache Short Fleetside
>
>Good morning, my original 53 GMC truck has on occasion not started right
>up
>but grinds the starter drive gear on the flywheel....its a horrible
>sound
>especially at a car show, its embearasing.so this weekend i took out
>the
>starter and tried a different starter...with the same results...the
>drive
>gear kinda hangs up on the flywheel sometimes and if you push harder it
>will
>just grind gears..if i go turn the fan & belt a bit it will usually
>engage
>properly...i put on a weaker pedal return spring so i have a better feel
>if
>its engaged or not....can i take off the bottom flywheel cover and file
>the
>flywheel teeth to try to clean up the mating area.the flywheel teeth
>have
>quite a bit of chewing done to the face side .......or can the flywheel
>be
>changed with out removing the engine.....the teeth on the starter look
>good.....any better ideas?.....thanks Steve
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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